第十章 良缘之美：从白纱到「西形东韵」

1. 维多利亚女王为什么选白纱，它后来成了什么符号？
2. 白婚纱刚进中国时，大家是怎么看待它的？
3. “西形东韵”具体指什么，和全盘西化有啥区别？
4. 如果让我设计融合中西的婚纱，我该注意哪些点？
5. 传统靠重复还是创新才能活下来？

1. Why did Queen Victoria choose a white dress, and what did it become a symbol of?
2. How did people in China view white wedding dresses when they first arrived?
3. What exactly does "Western style with Eastern charm" mean, and how is it different from completely Westernizing?
4. If I were to design a wedding dress that blends Chinese and Western styles, what should I pay attention to?
5. Can tradition survive through repetition or innovation?

1 00:02:11,600 --> 00:02:13,833 10.1 The Western Origins 10.1 婚纱的西方起源： 2 00:02:13,833 --> 00:02:17,733 of the Wedding Gown: From Religious Ritual 从宗教仪式到时尚符号婚纱的起源与 3 00:02:17,733 --> 00:02:19,400 to Fashion Symbol 欧洲宗教仪式具有密切联系。 4 00:02:19,400 --> 00:02:21,366 The origins of the wedding gown are 欧洲宗教仪式具有密切联系。 5 00:02:21,366 --> 00:02:23,900 closely connected with European religious 欧洲宗教仪式具有密切联系。 6 00:02:23,900 --> 00:02:24,600 ceremonies. 欧洲宗教仪式具有密切联系。 7 00:02:24,600 --> 00:02:27,333 In this context, white gradually acquired 在这样的文化背景中， 8 00:02:27,333 --> 00:02:29,800 symbolic associations with purity, 白色逐渐被赋予纯洁、 9 00:02:29,800 --> 00:02:31,200 fidelity, and sacredness, 忠贞与神圣等象征意义， 10 00:02:31,200 --> 00:02:33,900 becoming an important visual language 并成为教堂婚礼中非常重要的视觉语言。 11 00:02:33,900 --> 00:02:35,933 of the church wedding ceremony. 并成为教堂婚礼中非常重要的视觉语言。 12 00:02:35,933 --> 00:02:38,533 An important turning point came in 1840 1840年，维多利亚女王的婚礼成为 13 00:02:38,533 --> 00:02:40,800 with the wedding of Queen Victoria. 白色婚纱发展历史中的重要转折点。 14 00:02:40,800 --> 00:02:43,400 She broke with convention by wearing a 她打破传统， 15 00:02:43,400 --> 00:02:45,100 white lace wedding gown and a wreath 身穿洁白的蕾丝婚纱，并佩戴橙花花环。 16 00:02:45,100 --> 00:02:46,233 of orange blossoms. 身穿洁白的蕾丝婚纱，并佩戴橙花花环。 17 00:02:46,233 --> 00:02:48,000 Through widely circulated images 随着她的婚礼形象通过版画和 18 00:02:48,000 --> 00:02:50,166 and reports, her bridal appearance became 媒体报道广泛传播， 19 00:02:50,166 --> 00:02:52,066 highly influential and contributed 白色婚纱的影响力迅速扩大， 20 00:02:52,066 --> 00:02:54,066 significantly to the popularization 并逐渐成为广受欢迎的婚礼服饰。 21 00:02:54,066 --> 00:02:55,333 of the white wedding gown. 并逐渐成为广受欢迎的婚礼服饰。 22 00:02:55,333 --> 00:02:57,066 From that point onward, 从此以后， 23 00:02:57,066 --> 00:03:00,066 the white wedding gown gradually moved 白色婚纱逐渐超越原本的宗教象征意义， 24 00:03:00,066 --> 00:03:03,800 beyond its religious associations 成为现代西方婚礼中最具有辨识度的 25 00:03:03,800 --> 00:03:05,800 and became one of the most recognizable 浪漫符号之一。 26 00:03:05,800 --> 00:03:08,800 romantic symbols of the modern Western 浪漫符号之一。 27 00:03:08,800 --> 00:03:09,433 wedding. 浪漫符号之一。 28 00:03:09,433 --> 00:03:12,366 It came to represent not only ceremonial 它所代表的不再仅仅是纯洁与神圣， 29 00:03:12,366 --> 00:03:13,900 purity and sacredness, 也逐渐承载起人们对于爱情、 30 00:03:13,900 --> 00:03:16,600 but also an enduring cultural ideal 承诺以及幸福婚姻的长久想象。 31 00:03:16,600 --> 00:03:17,766 of love, commitment, 承诺以及幸福婚姻的长久想象。 32 00:03:17,766 --> 00:03:19,600 and marital happiness. 承诺以及幸福婚姻的长久想象。 33 00:03:19,600 --> 00:03:22,000 10.2 The Transformation 10.2 婚纱的时代变迁 34 00:03:22,000 --> 00:03:25,233 of the Wedding Gown Through Time 婚纱不仅仅是一件服饰， 35 00:03:25,233 --> 00:03:27,966 A wedding gown is not merely a garment. 也可以被理解为凝固的时代美学。 36 00:03:27,966 --> 00:03:29,300 It can also be understood 一件服饰，也可以被理解为凝固的时代美学。 37 00:03:29,300 --> 00:03:32,333 as a crystallization of the aesthetics 它既反映着不同时期对于女性美的理解， 38 00:03:32,333 --> 00:03:33,466 of its time, reflecting changing ideals 也见证着女性自我表达方式逐渐走向多元。 39 00:03:33,466 --> 00:03:35,600 of femininity and increasingly diverse 也见证着女性自我表达方式逐渐走向多元。 40 00:03:35,600 --> 00:03:36,933 forms of self-expression. 也见证着女性自我表达方式逐渐走向多元。 41 00:03:36,933 --> 00:03:38,966 From the late nineteenth century 从19世纪末到20世纪中期， 42 00:03:38,966 --> 00:03:41,300 to the mid-twentieth century, 婚纱逐渐告别维多利亚时代相对厚重的 43 00:03:41,300 --> 00:03:42,266 wedding gowns gradually moved away 视觉形态，面料开始变得更加轻盈。 44 00:03:42,266 --> 00:03:44,466 from the visual heaviness 视觉形态，面料开始变得更加轻盈。 45 00:03:44,466 --> 00:03:45,700 of the Victorian era. 视觉形态，面料开始变得更加轻盈。 46 00:03:45,700 --> 00:03:47,200 Fabrics became lighter, 尤其受到战争时期社会环境的影响， 47 00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:49,566 while wartime conditions encouraged 婚纱设计进一步转向简约与实用， 48 00:03:49,566 --> 00:03:50,033 simpler 通过更加利落的剪裁表现女性温婉而优雅的 49 00:03:50,033 --> 00:03:51,833 and more practical designs. 仪态，并由此奠定现代婚纱的重要审美基础。 50 00:03:51,833 --> 00:03:54,266 Clean tailoring and graceful femininity 到了20世纪60年代， 51 00:03:54,266 --> 00:03:56,366 together established an important 婚纱再次发生明显变化。 52 00:03:56,366 --> 00:03:58,333 foundation for the modern bridal 婚纱再次发生明显变化。 53 00:03:58,333 --> 00:03:58,933 aesthetic. 婚纱再次发生明显变化。 54 00:03:58,933 --> 00:04:02,366 In the 1960s, wedding fashion underwent 婚纱再次发生明显变化。 55 00:04:02,366 --> 00:04:04,666 another significant transformation. 婚纱再次发生明显变化。 56 00:04:04,666 --> 00:04:06,600 Influenced by Mod culture 在Mod文化与女权运动等社会文化思潮影响 57 00:04:06,600 --> 00:04:09,500 and the women's movement, mini dresses, 下，迷你裙、 58 00:04:09,500 --> 00:04:12,266 geometric cutting, and bold silhouettes 几何剪裁以及更加大胆的 59 00:04:12,266 --> 00:04:14,066 entered bridal fashion. 廓形开始进入婚纱设计。 60 00:04:14,066 --> 00:04:16,466 The wedding gown was no longer limited 婚纱不再只是传统意义上的"公主梦"， 61 00:04:16,466 --> 00:04:18,533 to a conventional "princess dream"; 同时也可以成为独立、 62 00:04:18,533 --> 00:04:21,033 it could also express independence, 反叛以及追求个性的时代符号。 63 00:04:21,033 --> 00:04:23,100 rebellion, and individuality. 反叛以及追求个性的时代符号。 64 00:04:23,100 --> 00:04:24,866 In contemporary fashion, 进入当代以后， 65 00:04:24,866 --> 00:04:27,566 bridal style has become increasingly 婚纱风格进一步走向多元。 66 00:04:27,566 --> 00:04:28,566 unrestricted. 婚纱风格进一步走向多元。 67 00:04:28,566 --> 00:04:30,600 Vintage revival, minimalism, 复古回潮、极简主义、 68 00:04:30,600 --> 00:04:32,600 haute couture luxury, 高级定制以及适用于户外婚礼的轻婚纱可以 69 00:04:32,600 --> 00:04:35,133 and lightweight outdoor wedding dresses 同时存在。 70 00:04:35,133 --> 00:04:36,000 now coexist. 同时存在。 71 00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:38,733 Rather than following a single ideal, 新娘不再需要遵循唯一的审美标准， ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）