第五章 良缘之美：盛世华服——隋唐婚服的开放、色彩与等级

1. 为什么隋唐婚服流行“男红女绿”的搭配？
2. 这种色彩选择跟传统的五行学说有关吗？
3. 隋唐婚服和之前魏晋时期的风格有什么大不同？
4. 普通百姓结婚能穿像皇室那么华丽的衣服吗？
5. 婚服的开放风格是不是说明当时女性地位更高？

1. Why did men wear red and women wear green in Sui and Tang dynasty wedding outfits?
2. Is this color choice related to the traditional Five Elements theory?
3. What’s the main difference between Sui and Tang wedding clothes and those from the Wei and Jin periods?
4. Could ordinary people wear such fancy clothes for their weddings, like the royal family?
5. Does the open style of wedding clothes mean that women had a higher status back then?

1 00:02:01,166 --> 00:02:03,900 5.1 Historical Background: 5.1 时代背景： 2 00:02:03,900 --> 00:02:07,400 The Splendor of a Flourishing Age 盛世华章隋唐时期完成大一统之后，政治、 3 00:02:07,400 --> 00:02:10,333 The Sui and Tang dynasties created a 经济以及文化都进入了非常繁荣的发展阶段。 4 00:02:10,333 --> 00:02:12,466 period of political unity, 经济以及文化都进入了非常繁荣的发展阶段。 5 00:02:12,466 --> 00:02:14,466 economic prosperity, 经济以及文化都进入了非常繁荣的发展阶段。 6 00:02:14,466 --> 00:02:16,933 and extensive cultural exchange. 经济以及文化都进入了非常繁荣的发展阶段。 7 00:02:16,933 --> 00:02:19,266 A relatively stable political order 稳定的政治秩序为社会发展奠定了基础， 8 00:02:19,266 --> 00:02:21,533 provided the foundation for growth, 而经济繁荣则进一步推动了物质文化与 9 00:02:21,533 --> 00:02:24,000 while economic prosperity supported 服饰文化的发展。 10 00:02:24,000 --> 00:02:26,500 increasingly sophisticated material 服饰文化的发展。 11 00:02:26,500 --> 00:02:27,033 culture. 服饰文化的发展。 12 00:02:27,033 --> 00:02:30,000 At the same time, the Silk Road connected 与此同时，丝绸之路保持畅通， 13 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:33,133 China with Central Asia and other regions, 中国与中亚以及其他地区之间的人员、商品、 14 00:02:33,133 --> 00:02:35,800 encouraging continuous movement of people, 宗教、音乐、舞蹈和服饰文化不断交流。 15 00:02:35,800 --> 00:02:38,733 goods, religions, music, dance, 宗教、音乐、舞蹈和服饰文化不断交流。 16 00:02:38,733 --> 00:02:40,500 and clothing traditions. 宗教、音乐、舞蹈和服饰文化不断交流。 17 00:02:40,500 --> 00:02:43,733 The cultural spirit of the Tang dynasty 因此， 18 00:02:43,733 --> 00:02:45,066 was therefore marked by confidence 唐代非常重要的文化特征，就是兼容并包。 19 00:02:45,066 --> 00:02:46,200 and inclusiveness. 唐代非常重要的文化特征，就是兼容并包。 20 00:02:46,200 --> 00:02:48,466 Chinese and non-Chinese traditions 胡汉文化以及不同地域文化相互吸收， 21 00:02:48,466 --> 00:02:50,033 interacted dynamically, 从诗词歌赋到音乐舞蹈，再到日常服饰， 22 00:02:50,033 --> 00:02:51,700 producing a highly diverse cultural 都体现出盛唐非常强烈的文化自信与 23 00:02:51,700 --> 00:02:53,233 environment. 开放气度。 24 00:02:53,233 --> 00:02:55,733 This openness can be observed not only 开放气度。 25 00:02:55,733 --> 00:02:57,166 in literature and music, 开放气度。 26 00:02:57,166 --> 00:02:59,533 but also very clearly in clothing. 开放气度。 27 00:02:59,533 --> 00:03:01,800 Wedding dress changed accordingly. 婚服也在这样的背景下发生明显变化。 28 00:03:01,800 --> 00:03:03,900 Compared with the restrained 与魏晋时期偏向清淡、 29 00:03:03,900 --> 00:03:07,666 and light aesthetic of the preceding Wei 轻盈的审美相比， 30 00:03:07,666 --> 00:03:09,266 and Jin periods, Tang wedding attire 唐代婚服开始更加重视浓艳的吉祥色彩以及 31 00:03:09,266 --> 00:03:11,966 increasingly emphasized rich colors, 繁丽的装饰。 32 00:03:11,966 --> 00:03:13,200 elaborate decoration, 繁丽的装饰。 33 00:03:13,200 --> 00:03:15,400 and festive visual impact. 繁丽的装饰。 34 00:03:15,400 --> 00:03:18,033 The practice commonly summarized as "men "红男绿女"的婚服视觉关系也逐渐形成， 35 00:03:18,033 --> 00:03:20,066 in red and women in green" became 喜庆色彩越来越 36 00:03:20,066 --> 00:03:21,600 increasingly recognizable, 成为婚礼最重要的 37 00:03:21,600 --> 00:03:24,666 and bright wedding colors became central 视觉表达之一。 38 00:03:24,666 --> 00:03:27,300 to the visual expression of celebration. 视觉表达之一。 39 00:03:27,300 --> 00:03:30,433 In this way, wedding attire became a vivid 因此， 40 00:03:30,433 --> 00:03:33,300 reflection of the wealth, confidence, 唐代婚服可以看作整个盛唐社会繁荣、 41 00:03:33,300 --> 00:03:36,333 and openness of the Tang dynasty. 自信与开放精神的一种服饰化呈现。 42 00:03:36,333 --> 00:03:38,066 5.2 Tang Dynasty Wedding Dress: 5.2 唐代婚服形制： 43 00:03:38,066 --> 00:03:40,733 The Coexistence of Multiple Forms 多元并存唐代服饰很重要的一个特点， 44 00:03:40,733 --> 00:03:42,933 One important characteristic 就是不同形制能够同时存在。 45 00:03:42,933 --> 00:03:45,566 of Tang clothing was the coexistence 就是不同形制能够同时存在。 46 00:03:45,566 --> 00:03:47,933 of different garment structures. 就是不同形制能够同时存在。 47 00:03:47,933 --> 00:03:49,566 The first major form was the ruqun, 首先是非常具有代表性的襦裙制。 48 00:03:49,566 --> 00:03:52,500 consisting of an upper jacket or blouse 首先是非常具有代表性的襦裙制。 49 00:03:52,500 --> 00:03:53,766 and a separate skirt. 首先是非常具有代表性的襦裙制。 50 00:03:53,766 --> 00:03:57,300 This was one of the most representative 它采用上襦下裙的分体式结构， 51 00:03:57,300 --> 00:03:58,533 forms of women’s dress 是唐代女性服饰中极具代表性的形式。 52 00:03:58,533 --> 00:04:00,033 in the Tang dynasty. 是唐代女性服饰中极具代表性的形式。 53 00:04:00,033 --> 00:04:02,566 Its colors were often bright and vivid, 这一时期的襦裙通常色彩明快， 54 00:04:02,566 --> 00:04:05,200 while the skirt could extend all the way 裙摆宽大而修长，有时甚至可以曳地， 55 00:04:05,200 --> 00:04:06,066 to the ground. 因此整体视觉效果更加活泼、开放和灵动。 56 00:04:06,066 --> 00:04:08,733 The overall effect was lively, open, 这种服装也非常直观地表现出盛唐女性自信、 57 00:04:08,733 --> 00:04:09,733 and graceful. 自由以及相对开放的精神状态。 58 00:04:09,733 --> 00:04:11,900 This form expressed the confidence 另一方面， 59 00:04:11,900 --> 00:04:14,300 and freedom associated with Tang women 唐代仍然保留了更加传统的深衣和 60 00:04:14,300 --> 00:04:16,533 and became one of the clearest visual 上下连属式袍服结构。 61 00:04:16,533 --> 00:04:19,133 reflections of the relatively open social 上下连属式袍服结构。 62 00:04:19,133 --> 00:04:20,633 atmosphere of the period. 上下连属式袍服结构。 63 00:04:20,633 --> 00:04:23,300 Another important form was the shenyi 上下连属式袍服结构。 64 00:04:23,300 --> 00:04:25,433 and continuous robe tradition. 上下连属式袍服结构。 65 00:04:25,433 --> 00:04:27,633 Unlike the separated structure 这种服装更加接近传统礼服制度。 66 00:04:27,633 --> 00:04:30,033 of the ruqun, this form connected the 这种服装更加接近传统礼服制度。 67 00:04:30,033 --> 00:04:32,433 upper and lower parts of the garment 这种服装更加接近传统礼服制度。 68 00:04:32,433 --> 00:04:33,733 into a unified robe. 这种服装更加接近传统礼服制度。 69 00:04:33,733 --> 00:04:36,333 With broad sleeves and flowing lines, 宽袍大袖使整个身体线条显得流畅而庄重， 70 00:04:36,333 --> 00:04:38,233 it created a more dignified 因此特别适合比较正式的礼仪场合。 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）