第二章 良缘之美：天地之礼——周代婚服的礼制、色彩与象征
课程：良缘之美(ENGL026)主讲：张慧琴教授词汇 37 条句型 4 条要点 2 条
一、本课要点
- 玄纁配色：玄(xuán)天黑，纁(xūn)黄赤。上衣玄下裳纁，象征天地阴阳和谐。
- 礼先于衣：Ritual precedes clothing; garments are material carriers of 'Li'.
二、核心词汇（37）
| 词条 | 释义 / 讲解 |
|---|
| Six Rites | 六礼。周代规范婚姻仪轨的六种礼仪程序，婚服即其直观表达。 |
| 玄色 (Xuán sè) | 黑中扬红的颜色，象征天。 |
| 纁色 (Xūn sè) | 赤黄之色，象征地。 |
| 阴阳相合 | Yin and Yang in harmony, symbolizing marital union. |
| 天地交泰 | Heaven and Earth in communication, a state of auspiciousness. |
| 合二姓之好 | Uniting two families in marriage. |
| ritualization | 仪式化。指行为或制度被赋予固定、庄严的形式和程序。 |
| hierarchy | 等级制度。指社会或组织中基于地位、权力或重要性的层级结构。 |
| established conventions | 既定惯例/传统。指长期形成并被社会广泛接受的行为规范。 |
| projection | 投射/体现。此处指抽象的制度（礼乐）在具体衣物上的外在显现。 |
| cosmological | 宇宙论的。涉及宇宙起源、结构及自然秩序（如天地、阴阳）的理论。 |
| differentiated | 区分/差异化。指根据社会等级对服饰形制进行严格区分。 |
| Etiquette and Ceremonial | 《仪礼》。中国古代经典之一，详细记载了各种礼仪规范。 |
| 纯衣纁袡 | Pure black top with crimson hem, a specific Zhou dynasty wedding attire. |
| transformation | 转变/蜕变。此处指女性通过婚礼从少女到成年妻子的身份转换。 |
| instrument | 工具/手段。指服饰不仅是遮体之物，更是维护社会秩序的工具。 |
| patriarchal | 父权制的。指以男性为中心、强调父系血缘和权威的社会制度。 |
| deep crimson | 玄色被描述为带微微赤色光泽，可译为 deep crimson 或 dark red with a reddish hue。 |
| subtle | 微妙的/隐约的。形容玄色中带有不易察觉的红调。 |
| warm reddish-yellow | 纁色呈现温润的赤黄色，对应 warm reddish-yellow，象征大地之色。 |
| nurture | 养育/滋养。指大地承载并孕育万物的功能，象征阴的包容性。 |
| harmony of Yin and Yang | “阴阳和合”译为 harmony of Yin and Yang，指宇宙间两种对立力量的平衡与结合。 |
| harmonious interaction | 和谐互动。指天地、阴阳之间相互协调、平衡的关系。 |
| Juebian (ceremonial cap) | 爵弁是周代士阶层的重要礼冠，音译 Juebian，形似倒置爵杯。 |
| governed by | 受……支配/规范。此处指婚礼服饰严格遵循礼制规定。 |
| resembled | 类似于/像。用于描述爵弁形状像倒置的酒器。 |
| Xuan top and Xun skirt | “玄衣纁裳”指玄色上衣配纁色下裳，体现天玄地黄、天地交泰的观念。 |
| dignified | 庄严的/端庄的。形容礼服宽大庄重，体现君子威仪。 |
| jade pendant | 玉组佩即 jade pendant，行走时发声以约束仪态，体现“礼”对行为的规范。 |
| brilliant | 鲜艳的/灿烂的。此处对比后世大红婚服，强调周代色彩内敛。 |
| Xun ran (border) | 纁袡指衣服交领、袖口等处的纁色镶边，即 decorative border in Xun color。 |
| solemn and restrained | 庄重而克制。形容周代女性婚服视觉特征的关键词。 |
| cosmology | 宇宙观。指服饰将抽象的宇宙秩序转化为可视形式。 |
| make visible | 使……可见/显化。此处指服饰将抽象的礼仪秩序具象化。 |
| material carrier | 物质载体。指婚服作为“礼”的物理承载形式。 |
| 礼之器 | A vessel or instrument of ritual. |
| aesthetic interests | 审美情趣。指秦汉时期人们开始关注服饰的美感而非仅重礼仪。 |
三、句型与语法点（4）
| 要点 | 说明 |
|---|
| incorporate into | 纳入/结合。指身体动作也被纳入礼制纪律的约束中。 |
| Classical Parallelism | “衣，身之章也；服，礼之表也”为对偶句，意为服饰是身体的纹饰，是礼制的表象。 |
| interconnected elements | 相互关联的元素。underlying structure 由三个 interconnected elements 构成，强调系统性。 |
| from... toward... | 从……转向……。描述婚服功能从“礼仪”向“习俗”、从“仪式”向“审美”的演变。 |
四、课堂讨论题
1. 玄色和纁色分别象征什么？为什么婚服要这样配色？
2. 周代婚服怎么体现“礼”？具体有哪些规定？
3. 不同等级的人穿婚服有什么不同？怎么区分？
4. 这种婚服设计对后世婚礼有什么影响？
5. 如果让你设计现代婚服，会借鉴周代的哪些元素？
五、Discussion Questions (English)
1. What do the colors black and reddish-brown symbolize? Why are these colors used in wedding attire?
2. How does the Zhou dynasty wedding attire reflect "ritual"? What were the specific rules?
3. How did wedding attire differ for people of different ranks? How could you tell them apart?
4. How did this wedding attire design influence later weddings?
5. If you were to design modern wedding clothes, which elements from the Zhou dynasty would you borrow?
六、听力 / 讲稿全文
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This system can be understood through
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three characteristics: ritualization,
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symbolization, and hierarchy.
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First, wedding attire was highly
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ritualized.
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From garment construction
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and decorative patterns to accessories,
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individual details were governed by
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established conventions.
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Clothing therefore became a concrete
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projection of the Zhou ritual
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and musical system, incorporating
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ceremonial regulations into every aspect
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of dress.
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Second, wedding attire was highly
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symbolic.
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The Zhou system emphasized xuan and xun:
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xuan represented heaven,
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while xun represented earth.
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Through these colors,
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wedding attire connected the cosmological
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relationship between heaven, earth, yin,
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and yang with the sacred meaning
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of marriage.
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Third, wedding attire was hierarchical.
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The forms, materials,
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and decorations used by the Son of Heaven,
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feudal lords, ministers, high officials,
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and the shi class were differentiated
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according to social rank.
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Wedding clothing therefore became a direct
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visual expression of the hierarchical
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order of Zhou society.
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Our understanding of Zhou dynasty wedding
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attire is supported by important classical
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texts, particularly the Yili,
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or Book of Etiquette and Ceremonial,
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and the Zhouli, or Rites of Zhou.
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The section titled
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Shi Hun Li, or The Wedding Rites
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of a Scholar, in the Yili records:
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“The woman wears the ci headdress,
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a dark garment, and xun-colored edging.
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Although the description is brief,
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it preserves essential information about
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the form and ritual regulation
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of women’s wedding attire during the Zhou
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period.
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The term ci refers to the artificial-hair
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headdress worn by a woman
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when she married.
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As an important part
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of ceremonial headwear,
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it symbolized the transformation
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of female identity and the completion
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of the transition into adulthood.
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The term ran refers to the decorative
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edging of the garment,
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which was made in a reddish-yellow xun color.
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The combination of a dark garment
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with xun edging was therefore not merely
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an aesthetic choice.
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It was a concrete expression
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of the Zhou ritual color system.
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The Zhouli, in the section concerning
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dyeing, also records the use of xun and xuan.
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This indicates that these colors were
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incorporated into institutional
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regulations at the state level.
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Within this symbolic system,
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xuan represented heaven
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and xun represented earth.
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Their combination conveyed the union
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of heaven and earth and the harmony
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of yin and yang, expressing wishes
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for marriage and the continuation
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of future generations.
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The regulation of color also reveals
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another important feature
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of Zhou wedding attire:
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clothing had become an instrument
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for maintaining social hierarchy
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and expressing the ethical principles
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of the patriarchal ritual system.
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The Zhou color system of xuan
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and xun was based
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七、课堂练习（AI 生成）
1. 在周代婚礼服饰中，“Xuan top and Xun skirt”（玄衣纁裳）的上衣与下裳分别采用什么颜色，以象征天地阴阳和谐？
A. 上衣玄色，下裳纁色
B. 上衣纁色，下裳玄色
C. 上衣纯黑，下裳纯黄
D. 上衣深红，下裳赤黄
答案：A · 根据板书要点，玄衣纁裳指玄色上衣配纁色下裳，象征天地阴阳和谐。
2. 板书中的词汇 ritualization 指行为或制度被赋予固定、庄严的形式和程序，在服饰文化中它主要强调什么？
A. 服饰的实用保暖功能
B. 礼仪制度的规范化与程序化
C. 民间服饰的自由演变
D. 色彩搭配的随意创新
答案：B · ritualization 意为仪式化，指行为或制度被赋予固定、庄严的形式和程序。
3. 周代婚服将抽象的宇宙秩序转化为可视形式，这一过程在板书术语中被称为 cosmology 与 make visible 的结合，其核心目的是什么？
A. 展示纺织工艺的精湛
B. 使抽象的礼仪秩序具象化
C. 记录贵族家庭的财富
D. 模仿自然界的植物形态
答案：B · 板书指出 cosmology 指宇宙观，make visible 指使……可见/显化，服饰将抽象的礼仪秩序具象化。
4. 古语“衣，身之章也；服，礼之表也”在板书语法点中被归类为 Classical Parallelism，该句型的主要修辞特征是什么？
A. 前后句式结构对称、意义相关
B. 大量使用夸张与比喻手法
C. 采用倒装语序强调重点
D. 以疑问句式引发读者思考
答案：A · Classical Parallelism 即对偶句，其特点是句式结构对称、意义相互关联。
5. 板书笔记提到“礼先于衣”，指出婚服是 material carrier。在文化语境中，这一术语强调服饰扮演了什么角色？
A. 调节体温的实用工具
B. 彰显个人时尚品味的媒介
C. “礼”的物理承载形式
D. 区分性别身份的标志
答案：C · material carrier 意为物质载体，板书明确指婚服作为“礼”的物理承载形式。