9. 少数民族丝路纹样 —— 民族图腾的时尚活化实践
课程:锦绣之美(ENGL026)主讲:张慧琴教授词汇 13 条句型 0 条要点 1 条
一、本课要点
- 活态传承:从“博物馆符号”到“可触摸的时尚”,强调非遗在日常生活中的实际应用。
二、核心词汇(13)
| 词条 | 释义 / 讲解 |
|---|
| shawl | 披肩。一种无袖的方形或长方形织物,常披在肩上,如纳西族的羊皮披肩。 |
| totem | 图腾。原始部落认为与自身有血缘关系的自然物(如青蛙),作为氏族标志和崇拜对象。 |
| cross-temporal | 跨时空的。cross-前缀表示跨越,temporal指时间,形容连接不同时代的文化对话。 |
| cultural exchange and integration | 文化交流与融合。exchange指互换,integration指融合,描述丝绸之路不仅是贸易通道。 |
| silhouette | 轮廓,剪影。服装设计中指衣服的整体外形线条,如波斯长袍的剪裁风格。 |
| embroidery | 刺绣。中亚传入的装饰技法,强调针法与图案的结合。 |
| cross-boundary | 跨界的。指“非遗+文创+时尚”不同领域的融合转化。 |
| cultural creativity | 文化创意。指将传统文化元素通过创意转化为现代产品或服务的模式。 |
| motif | 纹样/母题。传统图案的核心元素,如“四十八勾”等几何或具象图形。 |
| brocade | 锦,织锦。一种表面有彩色图案或花纹的厚重丝织物,如宋锦。 |
| warp and weft | 经纬。织物的纵向(经)和横向(纬)结构,宋锦工艺的核心。 |
| pearl and bead | 联珠。丝路纹样中常见的圆形连续图案,具有异域浪漫色彩。 |
| narrative | 叙事,叙述。此处指丝绸之路从历史故事转变为当下的文化实践。 |
四、课堂讨论题
1. 白族蝴蝶纹里的“福”和纳西族青蛙图腾,区别在哪?
2. 纳西披肩那七个圆扣,到底是代表勤奋还是青蛙?
3. 张慧琴教授,机器刺绣和手工刺绣在时尚转化中啥不同?
4. 能把这种纹样活化思路,用到其他非遗项目里吗?
5. 唐代胡服汉穿,对现在做民族风设计有啥启发?
五、Discussion Questions (English)
1. What’s the difference between the “fortune” symbol in the Bai butterfly pattern and the Naxi frog totem?
2. Do the seven round buttons on the Naxi shawl represent diligence or frogs?
3. Professor Zhang Huiqin, what’s the difference between machine embroidery and hand embroidery in fashion design?
4. Can we apply these ideas for revitalizing patterns to other intangible cultural heritage projects?
5. What can we learn from the Tang Dynasty’s mix of Hu and Han clothing styles for modern ethnic fashion design?
六、听力 / 讲稿全文
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9.2 Revitalization Practice:
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Naxi Costumes at Nanjing Museum Fashion Week
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In traditional Naxi dress
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the sheepskin shawl stands as a key cultural symbol
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The seven leather discs attached to it are commonly
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interpreted as symbols of diligence—
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working “under the stars and moon”—
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or as extensions of frog totems
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associated with life worship
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At the 2025 “Silk Road Cloud Fashion ·
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South Expo Fashion Week
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thirty designs inspired by Naxi traditional
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clothing were showcased"
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creating a cross-temporal dialogue
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between heritage and contemporary fashion
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Notably
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Naxi inheritor Zhang Liyun challenged conservative
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approaches by modernizing garment structures
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By adapting shawls to contemporary tailoring and
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combining machine embroidery with hand embroidery
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she transformed ancient frog motifs
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into practical design resources
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realizing the fashion translation of traditional patterns
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9.3 Integration of Foreign Silk Road Motifs
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in the Tang Dynasty and Its
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Contemporary Inheritance
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The Silk Road functioned not only
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as a route for exporting Chinese silk
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but also as a bridge for cultural exchange and integration
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During the Tang dynasty
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foreign elements such as Persian robe silhouettes
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and Central Asian embroidery techniques entered China
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even influencing imperial dress
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as reflected in Bai Juyi’s depiction of
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the “Rainbow Skirt and Feathered Coat
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This aesthetic tradition of cultural fusion
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continued in later periods
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A Qing-dynasty court garment preserved
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in the Art Museum of Tsinghua University demonstrates
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exquisite embroidery and complex pattern arrangements
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revealing the long-standing integration of foreign
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and Chinese artistic influences and offering
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inspiration for contemporary fashion design
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9.4 Modern Innovative Application of Ethnic Totems
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Xilankapu
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the traditional Tujia brocade from Enshi
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Hubei
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has successfully expanded through
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a“heritage + cultural creativity + fashion” model
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It has been transformed into over
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a hundred everyday products
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integrating intangible heritage into modern life
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In fashion design
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Zhou Qiong incorporated classic motifs such
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as the “Forty-Eight Hooks” and “Phoenix and Peony”
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into contemporary collections showcased
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at China International Fashion Week 2025
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Through modern tailoring and materials
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traditional patterns have become dynamic
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cultural expressions on the fashion stage
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9.5 The Fusion of Chinese and Western
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Elements in Sino-French Fashion Weeks
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During the 2024 Silk Road Week
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the Sino-French Fashion Encounter held at
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the Guimet Museum showcased innovative
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designs combining Song brocade techniques
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with Silk Road motifs
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Designers preserved the intricate weaving and
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rich textures of Song brocade while
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integrating patterns such as pearl
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roundels and scrolling vegetation
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The resulting garments blended Eastern
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elegance with exotic aesthetics
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transforming the Silk Road from a historical
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narrative into a living cultural practice
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within contemporary global fashion
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Ethnic Minority Silk Road Patterns —
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Fashion Revitalization Practice
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……(后略,完整文稿见视频页字幕)
本素材由艾智语途工场自动整理,仅供教学使用。配套视频:https://www.icclass.cn/VideoPlayer_ECom?id=36
七、课堂练习(AI 生成)
1. 在服装设计中,哪种英文术语指代一种无袖的方形或长方形织物,常如纳西族羊皮披肩般披在肩上?
A. shawl
B. silhouette
C. brocade
D. embroidery
答案:A · shawl意为披肩,材料中明确说明其为无袖方形或长方形织物,常披在肩上。
2. 若要形容一种能够连接不同时代、实现文化对话的设计概念,应使用下列哪个英文词汇?
A. cross-boundary
B. cultural creativity
C. cross-temporal
D. narrative
答案:C · cross-temporal意为跨时空的,前缀cross表示跨越,temporal指时间,专门用于形容连接不同时代的文化对话。
3. 宋锦工艺的核心在于织物的纵向与横向结构,这一结构在英文中对应的专业术语是?
A. pearl and bead
B. warp and weft
C. motif
D. silhouette
答案:B · warp and weft指经纬,即织物的纵向(经)和横向(纬)结构,是宋锦工艺的核心。
4. 丝绸之路不仅是古代贸易通道,更促进了不同文明间的互换与融合。描述这一现象的英文短语是?
A. cultural exchange and integration
B. cross-boundary
C. cultural creativity
D. narrative
答案:A · cultural exchange and integration意为文化交流与融合,exchange指互换,integration指融合,准确描述了丝绸之路的文化功能。
5. 在当代文化实践中,丝绸之路已从单纯的历史故事转变为当下的文化实践,这一转变过程可用哪个英文术语来概括?
A. totem
B. embroidery
C. narrative
D. brocade
答案:C · narrative在此处指叙事或叙述,强调丝绸之路从历史故事转变为当下的文化实践。