9. 少数民族丝路纹样 —— 民族图腾的时尚活化实践

课程:锦绣之美(ENGL026)主讲:张慧琴教授词汇 13 条句型 0 条要点 1 条
一、本课要点
二、核心词汇(13)
词条释义 / 讲解
shawl披肩。一种无袖的方形或长方形织物,常披在肩上,如纳西族的羊皮披肩。
totem图腾。原始部落认为与自身有血缘关系的自然物(如青蛙),作为氏族标志和崇拜对象。
cross-temporal跨时空的。cross-前缀表示跨越,temporal指时间,形容连接不同时代的文化对话。
cultural exchange and integration文化交流与融合。exchange指互换,integration指融合,描述丝绸之路不仅是贸易通道。
silhouette轮廓,剪影。服装设计中指衣服的整体外形线条,如波斯长袍的剪裁风格。
embroidery刺绣。中亚传入的装饰技法,强调针法与图案的结合。
cross-boundary跨界的。指“非遗+文创+时尚”不同领域的融合转化。
cultural creativity文化创意。指将传统文化元素通过创意转化为现代产品或服务的模式。
motif纹样/母题。传统图案的核心元素,如“四十八勾”等几何或具象图形。
brocade锦,织锦。一种表面有彩色图案或花纹的厚重丝织物,如宋锦。
warp and weft经纬。织物的纵向(经)和横向(纬)结构,宋锦工艺的核心。
pearl and bead联珠。丝路纹样中常见的圆形连续图案,具有异域浪漫色彩。
narrative叙事,叙述。此处指丝绸之路从历史故事转变为当下的文化实践。
四、课堂讨论题
1. 白族蝴蝶纹里的“福”和纳西族青蛙图腾,区别在哪?
2. 纳西披肩那七个圆扣,到底是代表勤奋还是青蛙?
3. 张慧琴教授,机器刺绣和手工刺绣在时尚转化中啥不同?
4. 能把这种纹样活化思路,用到其他非遗项目里吗?
5. 唐代胡服汉穿,对现在做民族风设计有啥启发?
五、Discussion Questions (English)
1. What’s the difference between the “fortune” symbol in the Bai butterfly pattern and the Naxi frog totem?
2. Do the seven round buttons on the Naxi shawl represent diligence or frogs?
3. Professor Zhang Huiqin, what’s the difference between machine embroidery and hand embroidery in fashion design?
4. Can we apply these ideas for revitalizing patterns to other intangible cultural heritage projects?
5. What can we learn from the Tang Dynasty’s mix of Hu and Han clothing styles for modern ethnic fashion design?
六、听力 / 讲稿全文
1 00:01:41,500 --> 00:01:44,300 9.2 Revitalization Practice: 2 00:01:44,300 --> 00:01:47,666 Naxi Costumes at Nanjing Museum Fashion Week 3 00:01:47,666 --> 00:01:49,633 In traditional Naxi dress 4 00:01:49,633 --> 00:01:53,200 the sheepskin shawl stands as a key cultural symbol 5 00:01:53,200 --> 00:01:55,933 The seven leather discs attached to it are commonly 6 00:01:55,933 --> 00:01:58,866 interpreted as symbols of diligence— 7 00:01:58,866 --> 00:02:01,866 working “under the stars and moon”— 8 00:02:01,866 --> 00:02:03,466 or as extensions of frog totems 9 00:02:03,466 --> 00:02:04,666 associated with life worship 10 00:02:04,666 --> 00:02:07,400 At the 2025 “Silk Road Cloud Fashion · 11 00:02:07,400 --> 00:02:09,833 South Expo Fashion Week 12 00:02:09,833 --> 00:02:12,233 thirty designs inspired by Naxi traditional 13 00:02:12,233 --> 00:02:14,000 clothing were showcased" 14 00:02:14,000 --> 00:02:16,800 creating a cross-temporal dialogue 15 00:02:16,800 --> 00:02:19,633 between heritage and contemporary fashion 16 00:02:19,633 --> 00:02:20,633 Notably 17 00:02:20,633 --> 00:02:23,533 Naxi inheritor Zhang Liyun challenged conservative 18 00:02:23,533 --> 00:02:26,933 approaches by modernizing garment structures 19 00:02:26,933 --> 00:02:30,366 By adapting shawls to contemporary tailoring and 20 00:02:30,366 --> 00:02:33,100 combining machine embroidery with hand embroidery 21 00:02:33,100 --> 00:02:36,066 she transformed ancient frog motifs 22 00:02:36,066 --> 00:02:38,466 into practical design resources 23 00:02:38,466 --> 00:02:41,933 realizing the fashion translation of traditional patterns 24 00:02:41,933 --> 00:02:44,433 9.3 Integration of Foreign Silk Road Motifs 25 00:02:44,433 --> 00:02:47,466 in the Tang Dynasty and Its 26 00:02:47,466 --> 00:02:49,700 Contemporary Inheritance 27 00:02:49,700 --> 00:02:51,633 The Silk Road functioned not only 28 00:02:51,633 --> 00:02:54,233 as a route for exporting Chinese silk 29 00:02:54,233 --> 00:02:58,133 but also as a bridge for cultural exchange and integration 30 00:02:58,133 --> 00:03:00,100 During the Tang dynasty 31 00:03:00,100 --> 00:03:02,733 foreign elements such as Persian robe silhouettes 32 00:03:02,733 --> 00:03:06,033 and Central Asian embroidery techniques entered China 33 00:03:06,033 --> 00:03:08,900 even influencing imperial dress 34 00:03:08,900 --> 00:03:11,333 as reflected in Bai Juyi’s depiction of 35 00:03:11,333 --> 00:03:13,933 the “Rainbow Skirt and Feathered Coat 36 00:03:13,933 --> 00:03:16,600 This aesthetic tradition of cultural fusion 37 00:03:16,600 --> 00:03:19,066 continued in later periods 38 00:03:19,066 --> 00:03:22,033 A Qing-dynasty court garment preserved 39 00:03:22,033 --> 00:03:25,733 in the Art Museum of Tsinghua University demonstrates 40 00:03:25,733 --> 00:03:29,100 exquisite embroidery and complex pattern arrangements 41 00:03:29,100 --> 00:03:31,566 revealing the long-standing integration of foreign 42 00:03:31,566 --> 00:03:35,100 and Chinese artistic influences and offering 43 00:03:35,100 --> 00:03:37,733 inspiration for contemporary fashion design 44 00:03:37,733 --> 00:03:42,600 9.4 Modern Innovative Application of Ethnic Totems 45 00:03:42,600 --> 00:03:43,700 Xilankapu 46 00:03:43,700 --> 00:03:46,666 the traditional Tujia brocade from Enshi 47 00:03:46,666 --> 00:03:47,333 Hubei 48 00:03:47,333 --> 00:03:50,200 has successfully expanded through 49 00:03:50,200 --> 00:03:53,233 a“heritage + cultural creativity + fashion” model 50 00:03:53,233 --> 00:03:55,566 It has been transformed into over 51 00:03:55,566 --> 00:03:57,233 a hundred everyday products 52 00:03:57,233 --> 00:04:00,933 integrating intangible heritage into modern life 53 00:04:00,933 --> 00:04:02,633 In fashion design 54 00:04:02,633 --> 00:04:05,433 Zhou Qiong incorporated classic motifs such 55 00:04:05,433 --> 00:04:08,533 as the “Forty-Eight Hooks” and “Phoenix and Peony” 56 00:04:08,533 --> 00:04:11,866 into contemporary collections showcased 57 00:04:11,866 --> 00:04:15,100 at China International Fashion Week 2025 58 00:04:15,100 --> 00:04:17,633 Through modern tailoring and materials 59 00:04:17,633 --> 00:04:20,266 traditional patterns have become dynamic 60 00:04:20,266 --> 00:04:23,066 cultural expressions on the fashion stage 61 00:04:23,066 --> 00:04:25,933 9.5 The Fusion of Chinese and Western 62 00:04:25,933 --> 00:04:29,100 Elements in Sino-French Fashion Weeks 63 00:04:29,100 --> 00:04:32,033 During the 2024 Silk Road Week 64 00:04:32,033 --> 00:04:34,266 the Sino-French Fashion Encounter held at 65 00:04:34,266 --> 00:04:37,333 the Guimet Museum showcased innovative 66 00:04:37,333 --> 00:04:40,100 designs combining Song brocade techniques 67 00:04:40,100 --> 00:04:42,700 with Silk Road motifs 68 00:04:42,700 --> 00:04:44,800 Designers preserved the intricate weaving and 69 00:04:44,800 --> 00:04:47,666 rich textures of Song brocade while 70 00:04:47,666 --> 00:04:50,766 integrating patterns such as pearl 71 00:04:50,766 --> 00:04:53,466 roundels and scrolling vegetation 72 00:04:53,466 --> 00:04:55,733 The resulting garments blended Eastern 73 00:04:55,733 --> 00:04:58,000 elegance with exotic aesthetics 74 00:04:58,000 --> 00:05:00,133 transforming the Silk Road from a historical 75 00:05:00,133 --> 00:05:02,633 narrative into a living cultural practice 76 00:05:02,633 --> 00:05:05,666 within contemporary global fashion 77 00:00:00,200 --> 00:00:03,433 Ethnic Minority Silk Road Patterns — 78 00:00:03,433 --> 00:00:05,200 Fashion Revitalization Practice 79 00:00:05,200 --> 00:0 ……(后略,完整文稿见视频页字幕)
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