第三章 开篇：元明时期戏曲服饰

1. 宋杂剧给了戏曲角色，那元明时期给了戏曲什么？
2. 洪洞广胜寺的水神庙壁画，对研究元代戏曲有什么特殊价值？
3. 元代宫廷乐舞中，不同角色的冠帽颜色具体代表什么含义？
4. 明代戏曲服饰相比元代，在区分角色方面有什么关键突破？
5. 如果要把元明服饰规则应用到现代古装剧，最难的一点是什么？

1. Song dynasty zaju gave us specific character types. What did Yuan and Ming dynasties contribute to opera?
2. What makes the murals at Shui Shen Miao in Guangsheng Temple so important for studying Yuan dynasty opera?
3. In Yuan dynasty court music and dance, what did the specific colors of the hats represent for different roles?
4. How did Ming dynasty opera costumes improve role differentiation compared to Yuan dynasty costumes?
5. If we wanted to apply Yuan and Ming costume rules to modern historical dramas, what would be the hardest part?

1 00:01:45,000 --> 00:01:50,633 3.2 The Yuan Court Music and Dance System 3.2 元代宫廷乐舞体系服饰 2 00:01:50,633 --> 00:01:54,633 The Yuan court maintained grand ceremonial ensembles, 元代宫廷设有大型礼仪乐队， 3 00:01:54,633 --> 00:01:56,933 each with its own costume logic. 每队都有自己的服饰逻辑 4 00:01:56,933 --> 00:01:59,833 The "King of Music Ensemble" dressed its “乐音王队”： 5 00:01:59,833 --> 00:02:02,133 officials in spread corner futou 礼官戴展角幞头、 6 00:02:02,133 --> 00:02:03,900 and purple robes, 穿紫袍， 7 00:02:03,900 --> 00:02:05,900 marking official status; 标识官方身份； 8 00:02:05,900 --> 00:02:07,433 its musicians in flowered futou 乐工戴花幞头、 9 00:02:07,433 --> 00:02:10,100 and narrow purple garments, 穿紫窄衣， 10 00:02:10,100 --> 00:02:12,166 expressing their profession; 体现职业属性； 11 00:02:12,166 --> 00:02:14,033 its women in Tang style caps 妇女戴唐帽、 12 00:02:14,033 --> 00:02:15,266 and yellow robes, 穿黄袍， 13 00:02:15,266 --> 00:02:17,200 inheriting Tang fashion; 承袭唐代风格； 14 00:02:17,200 --> 00:02:20,133 and its male figures in red hair binding, 男性角色红束发、 15 00:02:20,133 --> 00:02:23,400 blue masks, and multicolored robes, 戴青面具、着杂彩衣， 16 00:02:23,400 --> 00:02:26,266 shaping distinctive stage images. 塑造独特形象 17 00:02:26,266 --> 00:02:29,000 Special elements the five beam crown, 特色元素——五梁冠、 18 00:02:29,000 --> 00:02:29,966 the Dragon King mask, 龙王面具、 19 00:02:29,966 --> 00:02:32,600 and embroidered cloaks intensified the 龙王面具、 20 00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:35,133 atmosphere of myth and authority. 绣氅——强化了神话色彩与权威感 21 00:02:35,133 --> 00:02:37,700 The "Longevity Star Ensemble" went further: “寿星队”更进一步： 22 00:02:37,700 --> 00:02:39,666 women wore the flat heavenly crown 妇女或平天冠配鹤氅与方心曲领， 23 00:02:39,666 --> 00:02:42,133 with crane cloak and curved collar, 或凤翘冠配宽袖衣、 24 00:02:42,133 --> 00:02:44,100 or the phoenix crown with wide 或凤翘冠配宽袖衣、 25 00:02:44,100 --> 00:02:47,000 sleeved gown, cloud shoulder collar, 云肩、 26 00:02:47,000 --> 00:02:48,300 and jade pendants a spectrum 云肩、 27 00:02:48,300 --> 00:02:51,233 from classical restraint to splendor; 霞帔玉佩——从古典到华丽的完整光谱； 28 00:02:51,233 --> 00:02:53,133 men wore gold lacquered cap 霞帔玉佩——从古典到华丽的完整光谱； 29 00:02:53,133 --> 00:02:54,233 with crimson robe, 男性金漆弁冠配绯袍， 30 00:02:54,233 --> 00:02:55,833 or cloud scroll crown 男性金漆弁冠配绯袍， 31 00:02:55,833 --> 00:02:59,333 with blue mask combining power and mystery. 或卷云冠配青面具——权力与神秘兼具。 32 00:02:59,333 --> 00:03:03,066 The "Ritual Music Ensemble" completed the picture: “礼乐队”补全了图景：妇女黑漆弁冠、 33 00:03:03,066 --> 00:03:05,500 women in black cap, plain blue robe, 青素袍、 34 00:03:05,500 --> 00:03:08,433 white skirt, and belt for solemn purity, 白裙、束带，庄重纯洁； 35 00:03:08,433 --> 00:03:10,266 or nine dragon crown 或九龙冠配绣红袍， 36 00:03:10,266 --> 00:03:11,633 with embroidered red robe 彰显尊贵； 37 00:03:11,633 --> 00:03:13,100 for exalted rank; 彰显尊贵； 38 00:03:13,100 --> 00:03:16,600 men in cloud scroll crown and yellow robe 男性卷云冠配黄袍， 39 00:03:16,600 --> 00:03:18,500 for gentleness and wisdom, 温和智慧； 40 00:03:18,500 --> 00:03:21,166 or three dragon crown and red robe 三龙冠配红袍， 41 00:03:21,166 --> 00:03:22,933 for power and courage; 权力勇气； 42 00:03:22,933 --> 00:03:25,233 and the children in plain white, 童子素衣， 43 00:03:25,233 --> 00:03:27,333 carrying the theme of innocence. 承载纯真主题 44 00:03:27,333 --> 00:03:28,866 Every color, every crown, 每一种颜色、每一顶冠， 45 00:03:28,866 --> 00:03:32,300 is a word in a sentence about status and meaning. 都是一句关于身份与意义的句子里的一个词 46 00:03:32,300 --> 00:03:35,533 3.3 to 3.4 The Regulation of Costume 3.3 / 3.4 规制化标准与明代完备发展 47 00:03:35,533 --> 00:03:37,033 The Regulation of Costume 3.3 / 3.4 规制化标准与明代完备发展 48 00:03:37,033 --> 00:03:38,966 and the Ming System 3.3 / 3.4 规制化标准与明代完备发展 49 00:03:38,966 --> 00:03:40,300 Now the decisive turn: 接下来是决定性的转折： 50 00:03:40,300 --> 00:03:42,366 the codification of costume. 服饰的规制化 51 00:03:42,366 --> 00:03:43,900 Our scholarly basis is the literary 服饰的规制化 52 00:03:43,900 --> 00:03:46,066 historian Feng Yuanjun and her "Notes 服饰的规制化 53 00:03:46,066 --> 00:03:47,200 on the Unique Copies 学术依据是中国文学史专家冯沅君的 54 00:03:47,200 --> 00:03:49,966 of YuanMing zaju Manuscripts." 《孤本元明杂剧钞本题记》 55 00:03:49,966 --> 00:03:51,966 She identified six core principles 她提炼出服饰区分的六项核心原则—— 56 00:03:51,966 --> 00:03:55,033 of costume differentiation six "distinctions": “六别”：番汉有别、 57 00:03:55,033 --> 00:03:57,433 Chinese and foreign, civil and military, 文武有别、贵贱有别、 58 00:03:57,433 --> 00:03:59,500 noble and humble, rich 贫富有别、老少有别、 59 00:03:59,500 --> 00:04:02,600 and poor, old and young, good and evil. 善恶有别 60 00:04:02,600 --> 00:04:04,833 Their core value is to reveal the social 其核心价值在于揭示戏曲服装的 61 00:04:04,833 --> 00:04:06,500 attributes and role positioning 社会属性与角色定位， 62 00:04:06,500 --> 00:04:08,133 of theatrical costume, 社会属性与角色定位， 63 00:04:08,133 --> 00:04:11,033 reflecting its tendency toward codification. 反映规制化倾向。实践发现： 64 00:04:11,033 --> 00:04:14,166 In practice, Yuan and Ming northern zaju costume 元明北杂剧服饰角色区分明确， 65 00:04:14,166 --> 00:04:17,433 distinguishes its characters clearly, 元明北杂剧服饰角色区分明确， 66 00:04:17,433 --> 00:04:19,400 expressing differences of social rank, 体现社会等级、 67 00:04:19,400 --> 00:04:21,500 professional identity, and 职业身份、 68 00:04:21,500 --> 00:04:23,033 moral quality. 道德品质的差异 69 00:04:23,033 --> 00:04:24,566 On this foundation, 在此之上， 70 00:04:24,566 --> 00:04:26,233 the Ming brought theatrical costume 明代把戏曲服饰推向完备发展 71 00:04:26,233 --> 00:04:27,966 to complete development. 明代把戏曲服饰推向完备发展 72 00:04:27,966 --> 00:04:31,266 Its craftsmanship grew ever 工艺特征：制作工艺日益精湛， 73 00:04:31,266 --> 00:04:32,233 more refined cutting, sewing, 裁剪 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）