第八章 例外：写照生活艺术

1. 张教授，EXCEPTION 和那些只搞宋风设计的品牌，核心区别在哪？
2. “Qing Shao”系列里的“清、气、云、墨”具体指代哪些设计元素？
3. 宋代文人画和瓷器美学，在服装剪裁上是怎么具体融合的？
4. 如果我想把这种“宋式极简”用到日常通勤穿搭，该注意什么？
5. 这种“内向探索”的品牌哲学，对当下年轻人的生活方式有何启示？

1. Professor Zhang, what’s the main difference between EXCEPTION and brands that only focus on Song Dynasty style designs?
2. In the “Qing Shao” collection, what specific design elements do “Qing,” “Qi,” “Yun,” and “Mo” refer to?
3. How exactly are Song Dynasty literati painting and porcelain aesthetics integrated into clothing cuts?
4. If I want to use this “Song-style minimalism” in my daily commute outfits, what should I pay attention to?
5. How does this brand philosophy of “inward exploration” inspire young people’s lifestyle today?

1 00:02:12,300 --> 00:02:16,800 8.3 The 2016 "Qing Shao" Collection 8.3 2016 年"清韶"系列 2 00:02:16,800 --> 00:02:17,733 8.3 The 2016 "Qing Shao" Collection 8.3 2016 年"清韶"系列 3 00:02:17,733 --> 00:02:18,866 In 2016, Exception 2016 年，例外将 4 00:02:18,866 --> 00:02:20,300 gathered the artistic 宋代瓷器与文人山水画的 5 00:02:20,300 --> 00:02:22,000 common ground of Song porcelain 艺术共性汇聚成"清韶"系列， 6 00:02:22,000 --> 00:02:24,500 and literati landscape painting 艺术共性汇聚成"清韶"系列， 7 00:02:24,500 --> 00:02:26,600 into a series called "Qing Shao" Pure 艺术共性汇聚成"清韶"系列， 8 00:02:26,600 --> 00:02:27,800 Harmony. 艺术共性汇聚成"清韶"系列， 9 00:02:27,800 --> 00:02:30,833 It was organized into four chapters: 拟定"清""气""云""墨"四个篇章， 10 00:02:30,833 --> 00:02:33,266 "Clarity," "Qi," "Cloud," and "Ink, 纷呈初遇宋韵的理学之美。 11 00:02:33,266 --> 00:02:34,633 " presenting the Neo Confucian beauty 线条塑造来自"千密褶""盘线绣""手工绕 12 00:02:34,633 --> 00:02:37,700 of a first encounter with Song rhythm. 线"等工艺， 13 00:02:37,700 --> 00:02:39,733 The lines came from crafts such 象征"器"之曲直。 14 00:02:39,733 --> 00:02:41,800 as dense pleating, coiled thread 系列以宋代词人陆游名篇《采莲曲》为灵感， 15 00:02:41,800 --> 00:02:44,800 embroidery, and hand wrapped cording, 空间重现莲池之静美： 16 00:02:44,800 --> 00:02:47,333 symbolizing the bends and straightness of 空间重现莲池之静美： 17 00:02:47,333 --> 00:02:48,966 "vessel. 空间重现莲池之静美： 18 00:02:48,966 --> 00:02:51,066 " Inspired by the Song poet Lu You's "Song 白莲无瑕，藤茎蔓延。 19 00:02:51,066 --> 00:02:54,466 of Lotus Picking," the space recreated the 精致的莲花印花在衣裙上若隐若现， 20 00:02:54,466 --> 00:02:56,466 stillness of a lotus pond: 随行走飘逸灵动，仿佛带来一阵莲池的清香， 21 00:02:56,466 --> 00:02:58,300 flawless white lotus, 随行走飘逸灵动，仿佛带来一阵莲池的清香， 22 00:02:58,300 --> 00:03:00,200 spreading vine stems. 随行走飘逸灵动，仿佛带来一阵莲池的清香， 23 00:03:00,200 --> 00:03:02,866 Delicate lotus prints appear and vanish 令人心旷神怡。 24 00:03:02,866 --> 00:03:05,700 on the dresses, floating with each step, 服饰依托宋词所写的"君子之花"， 25 00:03:05,700 --> 00:03:08,266 as if carrying the fragrance of the pond. 服饰依托宋词所写的"君子之花"， 26 00:03:08,266 --> 00:03:10,633 The garments rest on the "gentleman's 致敬宋代对淡雅朴素的极致追求——由形而 27 00:03:10,633 --> 00:03:12,000 flower" of Song poetry, 至内的品性修为； 28 00:03:12,000 --> 00:03:13,733 paying tribute to the Song pursuit 融合宋代美学理念， 29 00:03:13,733 --> 00:03:16,166 of understated simplicity a refinement 采撷荷之灵性高洁呈于衣上：荷之芬芳， 30 00:03:16,166 --> 00:03:17,500 from outer form to 制衣之真诚，自然天成， 31 00:03:17,500 --> 00:03:18,966 inner character. 制衣之真诚，自然天成， 32 00:03:18,966 --> 00:03:21,700 The colors derive from natural blue green, 沁人心脾。色彩源于自然青绿， 33 00:03:21,700 --> 00:03:24,366 exploring the relationship between 以服装为载体，探索人与自我认知、 34 00:03:24,366 --> 00:03:25,700 clothing, self knowledge, 生活方式之间的关系——极致理性、 35 00:03:25,700 --> 00:03:28,100 and way of living: supremely rational, 清瘦自然、风雅高远。 36 00:03:28,100 --> 00:03:28,800 lean 清瘦自然、风雅高远。 37 00:03:28,800 --> 00:03:31,166 and natural, elegant and lofty. 清瘦自然、风雅高远。 38 00:03:31,166 --> 00:03:33,066 This Song style aesthetics, 这份在探寻非西方的现代性过程中呈现的 39 00:03:33,066 --> 00:03:36,133 discovered while seeking a non Western 宋氏美学，至今引领风尚。 40 00:03:36,133 --> 00:03:39,166 modernity, still leads fashion today. 宋氏美学，至今引领风尚。 41 00:03:39,166 --> 00:03:43,200 8.4 The 2021 "Song Song" 8.4 2021 年"颂宋""映荷"系列 42 00:03:43,200 --> 00:03:43,600 8.4 The 2021 "Song Song" 8.4 2021 年"颂宋""映荷"系列 43 00:03:43,600 --> 00:03:46,100 and "Ying He" Collections 8.4 2021 年"颂宋""映荷"系列 44 00:03:46,100 --> 00:03:49,100 In 2021, Exception picked up this thread 2021 年，例外重拾伏笔， 45 00:03:49,100 --> 00:03:50,933 again with two series: 2021 年，例外重拾伏笔， 46 00:03:50,933 --> 00:03:54,966 "Ode to Song" and "Reflected Lotus. 2021 年，例外重拾伏笔， 47 00:03:54,966 --> 00:03:56,766 " The inspiration this time was Wang 发布"颂宋""映荷"系列， 48 00:03:56,766 --> 00:03:58,900 Ximeng's Northern Song masterpiece, 发布"颂宋""映荷"系列， 49 00:03:58,900 --> 00:04:02,633 "A Thousand Li of Rivers and Mountains. 发布"颂宋""映荷"系列， 50 00:04:02,633 --> 00:04:04,233 " The brand chose lapis lazuli pigments 灵感来自北宋王希孟名作《千里江山图》。 51 00:04:04,233 --> 00:04:06,533 the very dyes that kept green landscape 品牌选用曾令青山绿水画、 52 00:04:06,533 --> 00:04:08,633 paintings and Dunhuang murals unfaded 敦煌壁画经久不褪的青金石染料， 53 00:04:08,633 --> 00:04:11,200 for centuries and combined them with 结合丝网印、数码印等当代工艺， 54 00:04:11,200 --> 00:04:12,700 contemporary techniques such 复现古画的山河幻彩； 55 00:04:12,700 --> 00:04:14,866 as screen printing and digital printing 复现古画的山河幻彩； 56 00:04:14,866 --> 00:04:16,700 to reproduce the shimmering colors 复现古画的山河幻彩； 57 00:04:16,700 --> 00:04:18,733 of the ancient painting. 复现古画的山河幻彩； 58 00:04:18,733 --> 00:04:21,833 At the same time, it selected Song garment 同时选取至今仍在日常生活中使用的 59 00:04:21,833 --> 00:04:24,466 forms still worn in daily life today, 宋代制式， 60 00:04:24,466 --> 00:04:26,766 attending to the humanist character shared 关注宋代服制与当代人衣着之中共通的 61 00:04:26,766 --> 00:04:28,500 by Song dress codes and 人本特性。 62 00:04:28,500 --> 00:04:30,400 contemporary clothing. 人本特性。 63 00:04:30,400 --> 00:04:32,466 From reserved and hazy to vivid 从含蓄朦胧到鲜明醒目，从冷到暖、 64 00:04:32,466 --> 00:04:34,766 and striking, from cold to warm, 由淡入浓——这正是例外宋文化由独及众的 65 00:04:34,766 --> 00:04:37,233 from faint to saturated this is precisely 探索旅程。 66 00:04:37,233 --> 00:04:40,200 Exception's journey of exploring 探索旅程。 67 00:04:40,200 --> 00:04:42,600 Song culture, from the solitary few 探索旅程。 68 00:04:42,600 --> 00:04:43,933 to the many. 探索旅程。 69 00:04:43,933 --> 00:04:48,900 8.5 The 2022 "Museum of Time" Collection 8.5 2022 年"时间藏馆"系列 70 00:04:48,900 --> 00:04:49,833 8.5 The 2022 "Museum of Time" Collection 8.5 2022 年"时间藏馆"系列 71 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）