第五章 弥尚与“山水意境”

1. 马凯设计的三个签名式特点具体指什么？
2. “留白”手法在服装设计中具体怎么体现？
3. 宋式美学和传统汉服有什么区别？
4. 如何把这种意境用到日常穿搭里？
5. 这对我们建立文化自信有什么启示？

1. What exactly are the three signature features designed by Ma Kai?
2. How is the "blank space" technique specifically applied in fashion design?
3. What is the difference between Song dynasty aesthetics and traditional Hanfu?
4. How can we use this artistic mood in our daily outfits?
5. What insights does this give us for building cultural confidence?

1 00:01:11,233 --> 00:01:14,933 5.2 The Brand's Core Philosophy 5.2 品牌核心理念 2 00:01:14,933 --> 00:01:15,800 5.2 The Brand's Core Philosophy 5.2 品牌核心理念 3 00:01:15,800 --> 00:01:18,500 The brand's core rests on two pillars. 品牌的内核有两根支柱。 4 00:01:18,500 --> 00:01:20,333 The first is the continuation 一是东方哲学的延续： 5 00:01:20,333 --> 00:01:22,300 of Eastern philosophy: stillness, 静谧、克制、 6 00:01:22,300 --> 00:01:24,100 restraint, balance. 平衡。 7 00:01:24,100 --> 00:01:25,766 The second is cultural care: 二是文化关怀：服装是人与自然、 8 00:01:25,766 --> 00:01:28,333 clothing understood as the medium through 人与社会对话的载体。 9 00:01:28,333 --> 00:01:30,300 which a person converses with nature, 这一点甚至写在秀的名字里： 10 00:01:30,300 --> 00:01:32,100 and with society. 这一点甚至写在秀的名字里： 11 00:01:32,100 --> 00:01:35,200 You can see this even in the names 2023/24年度大秀"春园雅集"， 12 00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:38,400 of its shows: the 2023/24 grand show 2025/26冬春系列"醒春拾色"。 13 00:01:38,400 --> 00:01:43,066 "Elegant Gathering in the Spring Garden,“ 只看这些命名， 14 00:01:43,066 --> 00:01:46,000 and the 2025/26 winter spring series 只看这些命名， 15 00:01:46,000 --> 00:01:49,533 "Awakening Spring, Gathering Color.” 只看这些命名， 16 00:01:49,533 --> 00:01:51,100 The vocabulary alone tells you where 你就知道这个品牌住在哪儿——住在 17 00:01:51,100 --> 00:01:52,733 this brand lives in the garden 宋代文人的园子里。 18 00:01:52,733 --> 00:01:54,400 of Song literati taste. 宋代文人的园子里。 19 00:01:54,400 --> 00:01:58,866 5.3 Design Inspiration: Song Landscape 5.3 设计灵感：源自宋代山水画 20 00:01:58,866 --> 00:01:59,166 5.3 Design Inspiration: Song Landscape 5.3 设计灵感：源自宋代山水画 21 00:01:59,166 --> 00:02:00,600 Painting 源自宋代山水画 22 00:02:00,600 --> 00:02:02,766 Where does the inspiration actually come 灵感究竟从哪里来？ 23 00:02:02,766 --> 00:02:03,366 from? 灵感究竟从哪里来？ 24 00:02:03,366 --> 00:02:05,566 Straight from Song dynasty landscape 直接来自宋代山水画。品牌从中取走的， 25 00:02:05,566 --> 00:02:06,433 painting. 品牌从中取走的， 26 00:02:06,433 --> 00:02:08,866 From it the brand takes its whole stance: 是整套姿态：崇尚自然、 27 00:02:08,866 --> 00:02:09,900 reverence for nature, 追求平衡、注重人与自然的共生。 28 00:02:09,900 --> 00:02:11,566 the pursuit of balance, 追求平衡、注重人与自然的共生。 29 00:02:11,566 --> 00:02:13,166 the symbiosis of the human 追求平衡、注重人与自然的共生。 30 00:02:13,166 --> 00:02:14,400 and the natural. 追求平衡、注重人与自然的共生。 31 00:02:14,400 --> 00:02:16,500 And painting gives it a concrete design 而山水画还给了一套具体的设计方法。 32 00:02:16,500 --> 00:02:17,666 method. 而山水画还给了一套具体的设计方法。 33 00:02:17,666 --> 00:02:19,700 The blank space of Chinese painting 中国画的留白与墨色的层层晕染， 34 00:02:19,700 --> 00:02:21,600 liubai, the deliberate emptiness 转化为服饰的空间感与呼吸感——面料被 35 00:02:21,600 --> 00:02:23,900 and the layering of ink washes become the 留出活动的余地， 36 00:02:23,900 --> 00:02:26,466 space and the breathing of a garment. 留出活动的余地， 37 00:02:26,466 --> 00:02:28,600 Fabric is left room to move; 一条裙子像一幅画那样经营位置， 38 00:02:28,600 --> 00:02:30,866 a dress is composed like a painting, 而不是像容器那样填满。 39 00:02:30,866 --> 00:02:32,800 not filled like a container. 而不是像容器那样填满。 40 00:02:32,800 --> 00:02:35,166 The highest principle has a beautiful 最高原则有个好听的名字： 41 00:02:35,166 --> 00:02:36,000 name: "clothing and wearer "衣人合一"——穿衣者与服饰和谐共存。 42 00:02:36,000 --> 00:02:37,866 as one" the garment and the person "衣人合一"——穿衣者与服饰和谐共存。 43 00:02:37,866 --> 00:02:39,300 coexisting in harmony. "衣人合一"——穿衣者与服饰和谐共存。 44 00:02:39,300 --> 00:02:42,833 5.4 Aesthetic Philosophy: 5.4 审美哲学： 45 00:02:42,833 --> 00:02:44,133 Nature Meets Humanity 自然与人文的融合 46 00:02:44,133 --> 00:02:45,333 Nature Meets Humanity 自然与人文的融合 47 00:02:45,333 --> 00:02:47,966 From Song culture the brand draws a triple 从宋代文化中， 48 00:02:47,966 --> 00:02:48,933 imagery. 从宋代文化中， 49 00:02:48,933 --> 00:02:51,266 First, the beauty of nature: 品牌提炼出三重意象。其一， 50 00:02:51,266 --> 00:02:52,866 the pale distance and stillness 自然之美：山水画的淡远与宁静。 51 00:02:52,866 --> 00:02:54,666 of landscape painting. 自然之美：山水画的淡远与宁静。 52 00:02:54,666 --> 00:02:56,666 Second, the thought of humanity: 其二，人文之思： 53 00:02:56,666 --> 00:02:58,966 reflection on life and the changing 对生活与社会变迁的体悟。 54 00:02:58,966 --> 00:03:00,033 of society. 对生活与社会变迁的体悟。 55 00:03:00,033 --> 00:03:01,566 Third, the realm of emotion: 其三，情感之境： 56 00:03:01,566 --> 00:03:03,966 color and pattern as carriers of quietude 以色彩与纹样传递静谧与深远。 57 00:03:03,966 --> 00:03:04,933 and depth. 以色彩与纹样传递静谧与深远。 58 00:03:04,933 --> 00:03:07,166 Three layers natural, human, 自然、人文、情感， 59 00:03:07,166 --> 00:03:09,500 emotional fused into one aesthetic 三层意象融为一个审美哲学。 60 00:03:09,500 --> 00:03:10,666 philosophy. 三层意象融为一个审美哲学。 61 00:03:10,666 --> 00:03:13,400 And in that fusion lies something larger: 而这场融合背后， 62 00:03:13,400 --> 00:03:16,033 the awakening of contemporary Eastern 是更宏大的东西——当代东方的审美自觉， 63 00:03:16,033 --> 00:03:18,433 aesthetic consciousness, and with it, 是更宏大的东西——当代东方的审美自觉， 64 00:03:18,433 --> 00:03:20,300 cultural confidence. 以及随之而来的文化自信。 65 00:03:20,300 --> 00:03:24,766 5.5 Spring/Summer 2020: 5.5 2020春夏系列： 66 00:03:24,766 --> 00:03:27,600 Reinterpreting the Song Two Panel Skirt 宋代"两面裙"的再诠释 67 00:03:27,600 --> 00:03:28,533 Reinterpreting the Song Two Panel Skirt 宋代"两面裙"的再诠释 68 00:03:28,533 --> 00:03:30,600 Now the clothes themselves. 现在看衣服本身。 69 00:03:30,600 --> 00:03:32,733 The 2020 spring summer collection 现在看衣服本身。 70 00:03:32,733 --> 00:03:35,166 reinterprets two Song garments, 2020春夏系列重新诠释了两件宋衣， 71 00:03:35,166 --> 00:03:36,933 and the first is the "two panel skirt" a 第一件是"两面裙"——宋代贵族与 72 00:03:36,933 --> 00:03:39,166 garment worn by Song women 市民女性都常穿的服饰， 73 00:03:39,166 --> 00:03:40,266 of both the noble and 市民女性都常穿的服饰， 74 00 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）