第三章 宋代服饰详析

1. 宋代男装为什么流行宽袍大袖，这和当时推崇的含蓄审美有什么关系？
2. 东坡巾为什么强调“无金无宝”，这种极简设计如何体现文人的精神追求？
3. 宋代女性常服的H型轮廓，和唐代那种强调曲线美感的服饰有什么本质区别？
4. 南宋女子混搭男装或胡服，是否意味着宋代社会对女性束缚已经彻底解除？
5. 在理学强调等级秩序的宋代，朝廷为何仍允许日常服饰中保留一定的时尚自由？

1. Why did men's clothing in the Song Dynasty favor wide robes and large sleeves, and how does this relate to the含蓄 (reserved) aesthetic of the
2. Why did the Dongpo hat emphasize "no gold, no jewels," and how does this minimalist design reflect the spiritual pursuits of literati?
3. What is the essential difference between the H-shaped silhouette of women's daily wear in the Song Dynasty and the Tang Dynasty's emphasis o
4. Did Southern Song women mixing men's clothing or Hu-style clothes mean that the constraints on women in Song society had been completely lif
5. In the Song Dynasty, where Neo-Confucianism emphasized social hierarchy, why did the court still allow some freedom in fashion for daily wea

1 00:01:33,866 --> 00:01:38,800 3.2 Women's Dress: Gender Expression 3.2 女子服饰： 2 00:01:38,800 --> 00:01:40,833 in Simplicity and Grace 简约灵动的性别表达 3 00:01:40,833 --> 00:01:42,733 Now, women's dress — simpler 接下来看女装——表面更简约， 4 00:01:42,733 --> 00:01:45,800 on the surface, subtler in its expression. 接下来看女装——表面更简约， 5 00:01:45,800 --> 00:01:47,900 The classic Song ensemble: a long, 表达却更细腻。宋代女装的经典组合： 6 00:01:47,900 --> 00:01:50,533 straight-collar beizi worn open in front, 外披直领对襟长褙子，内搭短襦长裙。 7 00:01:50,533 --> 00:01:52,500 layered over a short jacket 外披直领对襟长褙子，内搭短襦长裙。 8 00:01:52,500 --> 00:01:53,533 and a long skirt. 外披直领对襟长褙子，内搭短襦长裙。 9 00:01:53,533 --> 00:01:55,633 The beizi hangs in a clean, 褙子垂坠而下， 10 00:01:55,633 --> 00:01:58,833 straight tube — an H-shaped silhouette — 形成干净的直筒H型廓型；随着步履移动， 11 00:01:58,833 --> 00:02:00,266 and as the wearer moves, 面料褶皱层层苏醒， 12 00:02:00,266 --> 00:02:02,133 the folds of the fabric awaken, 面料褶皱层层苏醒， 13 00:02:02,133 --> 00:02:05,100 giving the garment line, rhythm and depth. 面料褶皱层层苏醒， 14 00:02:05,100 --> 00:02:06,933 Beauty here is not sculptural 线条之美与层次之美由此展开。 15 00:02:06,933 --> 00:02:08,733 but calligraphic: it lives in line 宋代女装之美， 16 00:02:08,733 --> 00:02:09,500 and flow. 宋代女装之美， 17 00:02:09,500 --> 00:02:11,666 Then the special pieces. 不是雕塑式的， 18 00:02:11,666 --> 00:02:13,666 Song women's trousers were designed 而是书法式的——重在线条与流动。 19 00:02:13,666 --> 00:02:15,833 to be comfortable and quietly flowing. 特色单品方面， 20 00:02:15,833 --> 00:02:18,000 Undergarments were coordinated 宋裤的设计兼顾舒适与飘逸； 21 00:02:18,000 --> 00:02:19,766 with the outer layers — light, 内衣色彩与外衣协调统一， 22 00:02:19,766 --> 00:02:22,166 pale colors overall, set off by small, 整体以浅淡色为主， 23 00:02:22,166 --> 00:02:24,400 deliberate accents of stronger hue. 整体以浅淡色为主， 24 00:02:24,400 --> 00:02:27,833 The result: fresh, clean, and free. 只以小面积的重点色点缀——清雅洒脱， 25 00:02:27,833 --> 00:02:29,766 And here is the surprise. 尽在其中。 26 00:02:29,766 --> 00:02:32,900 In the Southern Song we find women draped 更令人意外的是： 27 00:02:32,900 --> 00:02:34,900 in shawls over open-collar, 南宋女性中出现了披帛袒领大袖襦裙、 28 00:02:34,900 --> 00:02:37,900 wide-sleeve gowns — some wearing menswear, 着男装、 29 00:02:37,900 --> 00:02:40,966 some mixing in foreign "hu" style pieces. 着男装、 30 00:02:40,966 --> 00:02:42,866 A playful, mixed wardrobe. 搭胡服的混搭风格。 31 00:02:42,866 --> 00:02:44,433 What does it tell us? 这说明什么？ 32 00:02:44,433 --> 00:02:47,433 That the standing of women was quietly 说明女性地位在悄然提升， 33 00:02:47,433 --> 00:02:49,366 rising, and that Song society, 说明宋代社会虽讲理学纲常， 34 00:02:49,366 --> 00:02:51,833 for all its Neo-Confucian order, 日常生活却出人意料地包容开放。 35 00:02:51,833 --> 00:02:55,400 proved surprisingly open and tolerant 日常生活却出人意料地包容开放。 36 00:02:55,400 --> 00:02:56,366 in everyday life. 日常生活却出人意料地包容开放。 37 00:02:56,366 --> 00:02:58,900 Even within restraint, there was freedom. 约束之中，自有自由。 38 00:02:58,900 --> 00:03:04,400 3.3 Dress Codes and Social Hierarchy: 3.3 服饰制度与社会层级： 39 00:03:04,400 --> 00:03:07,033 Balancing Ritual Order and Fashion 礼序与风尚的平衡 40 00:03:07,033 --> 00:03:10,866 Dress, however, was never purely personal 礼序与风尚的平衡 41 00:03:10,866 --> 00:03:12,933 in the Song — it was also institution. 当然，服饰在宋代从来不只是个人之事， 42 00:03:12,933 --> 00:03:15,500 The emperor personally sanctioned the 它也是制度。 43 00:03:15,500 --> 00:03:17,400 Illustrated Three Rites 帝王钦定《三礼图》为衣冠范本， 44 00:03:17,400 --> 00:03:20,166 as the standard model for caps and gowns, 自觉效仿虞、周、汉、唐的旧制， 45 00:03:20,166 --> 00:03:23,733 consciously imitating the old institutions 自觉效仿虞、周、汉、唐的旧制， 46 00:03:23,733 --> 00:03:24,900 of the sage dynasties, 自觉效仿虞、周、汉、唐的旧制， 47 00:03:24,900 --> 00:03:26,900 from Yu and Zhou to Han and Tang. 自觉效仿虞、周、汉、唐的旧制， 48 00:03:26,900 --> 00:03:30,533 The guiding principles were ethical order 强调伦理纲常； 49 00:03:30,533 --> 00:03:32,766 on one side, and on the other two explicit 着装原则更是明确：务从简朴，不得奢靡。 50 00:03:32,766 --> 00:03:35,000 rules: "follow simplicity" 着装原则更是明确：务从简朴，不得奢靡。 51 00:03:35,000 --> 00:03:36,533 and "permit no extravagance. 着装原则更是明确：务从简朴，不得奢靡。 52 00:03:36,533 --> 00:03:38,866 Yet here is what makes the Song 但宋代的可贵之处在于： 53 00:03:38,866 --> 00:03:39,200 remarkable. 但宋代的可贵之处在于： 54 00:03:39,200 --> 00:03:41,933 In practice, the boundary between social 实践中，上下阶层的服饰多为通服， 55 00:03:41,933 --> 00:03:44,133 classes was relatively blurred: 界线相对模糊；整个社会不追求过分的豪华， 56 00:03:44,133 --> 00:03:47,666 upper and lower ranks largely shared the 界线相对模糊；整个社会不追求过分的豪华， 57 00:03:47,666 --> 00:03:48,966 same everyday garments, 界线相对模糊；整个社会不追求过分的豪华， 58 00:03:48,966 --> 00:03:50,800 and society as a whole did not chase 界线相对模糊；整个社会不追求过分的豪华， 59 00:03:50,800 --> 00:03:51,300 luxury. 界线相对模糊；整个社会不追求过分的豪华， 60 00:03:51,300 --> 00:03:53,966 The core ideal was the natural beauty 以本色自然之美为核心。 61 00:03:53,966 --> 00:03:55,366 of plain, undyed color. 于是， 62 00:03:55,366 --> 00:03:56,500 So the Song dress 宋代服饰制度达成了一种罕见的 63 00:03:56,500 --> 00:03:58,000 system achieved a rare 平衡——上层维护礼序， 64 00:03:58,000 --> 00:03:58,566 balance. 平衡——上层维护礼序， 65 00:03:58,566 --> 00:04:01,766 At the top, it preserved ritual order; 下层容纳风尚， 66 00:04:01,766 --> 00:04:04,900 below, it left room for popular fashion. 下层容纳风尚， 67 00:04:04,900 --> 00:04:07,533 The refined and the common met, mingled, 雅与俗相遇、 68 00:04:07,533 --> 00:04:09,233 and learned to appreciate one another. 交融、彼此欣赏。 69 00:04:09,233 --> 00:04:11,733 Order and vitality — held together 秩序与活力， 70 00:04:11,733 --> 00:04:13,433 in a single robe. 兼而有之。 71 00:00:00,200 --> 00:00:04,733 Chapter 3. Song Dynasty Dress in Detail 第三章 宋代服饰详析 72 00:00:04,733 --> 00: ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）