第五章 节庆之美 —— 古尔邦节：维吾尔族吉庆服

1. 古尔邦节为什么叫“宰牲节”？
2. 维吾尔族女性标志性服饰“艾德莱斯”是什么意思？
3. 男士穿的多长袖子长袍叫什么？女士穿什么？
4. 红色在维吾尔族服饰中代表什么寓意？
5. 艾德莱斯绸的图案和颜色有什么文化内涵？

1. Why is the Eid al-Adha festival called the "Festival of Sacrifice"?
2. What does the name "Atlas" mean for the traditional dress worn by Uyghur women?
3. What is the long-sleeved robe worn by men called, and what do women wear?
4. What does the color red symbolize in Uyghur clothing?
5. What cultural meanings are behind the patterns and colors of Atlas silk?

1 00:01:06,833 --> 00:01:11,933 5.2 Uyghur Traditional Costumes 5.2 维吾尔族服饰 2 00:01:11,933 --> 00:01:13,966 Uyghur traditional costumes bear 维吾尔族传统服饰地域特色鲜明， 3 00:01:13,966 --> 00:01:15,600 distinctive regional features, 男女着装风格区分清晰。 4 00:01:15,600 --> 00:01:18,566 with obvious stylistic differences between 男女着装风格区分清晰。 5 00:01:18,566 --> 00:01:19,966 men's and women's outfits. 男女着装风格区分清晰。 6 00:01:19,966 --> 00:01:21,633 Women favor bright silk 女性偏爱红、绿、金黄等高饱和度丝绒、 7 00:01:21,633 --> 00:01:24,266 and wool long skirts in red, green, 毛料长裙，外套分立领、直领， 8 00:01:24,266 --> 00:01:26,966 golden yellow and other vivid hues, 兼顾传统形制与现代审美， 9 00:01:26,966 --> 00:01:28,100 matched with stand collar 标志性服饰为艾德莱斯绸连衣裙。 10 00:01:28,100 --> 00:01:29,833 or straight collar coats 标志性服饰为艾德莱斯绸连衣裙。 11 00:01:29,833 --> 00:01:32,333 that integrate traditional shapes 标志性服饰为艾德莱斯绸连衣裙。 12 00:01:32,333 --> 00:01:33,900 and modern aesthetics. 标志性服饰为艾德莱斯绸连衣裙。 13 00:01:33,900 --> 00:01:35,200 Their iconic garment 绸料顺滑鲜亮、纹样流动， 14 00:01:35,200 --> 00:01:36,933 is the atlas silk 夏季搭配短坎肩轻盈雅致， 15 00:01:36,933 --> 00:01:37,400 dress. 承载女性对幸福生活的美好期许。 16 00:01:37,400 --> 00:01:40,166 Smooth and lustrous with flowing patterns, 男性服饰侧重实用层次感，品类丰富， 17 00:01:40,166 --> 00:01:43,266 it is paired with short waistcoats 核心单品是无扣对襟长袍袷袢，毛料制成、 18 00:01:43,266 --> 00:01:45,233 in summer, embodying local women's longing 袖长遮手，分单、夹、棉三型， 19 00:01:45,233 --> 00:01:46,633 for a fulfilling life. 多藏青、黑色， 20 00:01:46,633 --> 00:01:46,933 for a fulfilling life. 搭配皮靴与英吉沙小刀，尽显豪迈沉稳。 21 00:01:46,933 --> 00:01:49,400 Men's costumes focus on practicality 服饰色彩拥有固定文化寓意： 22 00:01:49,400 --> 00:01:51,966 and layered beauty, with the chapan 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 23 00:01:51,966 --> 00:01:54,866 as their core piece — a wool front opening 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 24 00:01:54,866 --> 00:01:57,000 robe with extra long sleeves, 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 25 00:01:57,000 --> 00:01:58,966 available in single, lined 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 26 00:01:58,966 --> 00:02:01,533 and padded styles, mostly dark blue 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 27 00:02:01,533 --> 00:02:02,133 or black. 红色代表生命力，用作婚服头纱； 28 00:02:02,133 --> 00:02:04,033 Paired with leather boots 蓝色象征纯净， 29 00:02:04,033 --> 00:02:05,433 and Yingjisha knives, 多用于宗教着装； 30 00:02:05,433 --> 00:02:08,300 it presents a steady, bold temperament. 多用于宗教着装； 31 00:02:08,300 --> 00:02:10,600 Every color carries fixed cultural 绿色代表绿洲， 32 00:02:10,600 --> 00:02:12,833 symbolism: red stands for vitality 是诺鲁孜节主色。 33 00:02:12,833 --> 00:02:14,000 for wedding veils; 是诺鲁孜节主色。 34 00:02:14,000 --> 00:02:15,600 blue symbolizes purity 是诺鲁孜节主色。 35 00:02:15,600 --> 00:02:17,200 for religious costumes; 是诺鲁孜节主色。 36 00:02:17,200 --> 00:02:18,900 green represents oases 是诺鲁孜节主色。 37 00:02:18,900 --> 00:02:21,600 as the representative color of Nowruz. 是诺鲁孜节主色。 38 00:02:21,600 --> 00:02:24,733 Badam and pomegranate are classic 经典纹样以巴旦木、石榴为主， 39 00:02:24,733 --> 00:02:26,466 patterns, implying endless life 分别寓意生生不息、家族兴旺。 40 00:02:26,466 --> 00:02:28,033 and prosperous clans. 分别寓意生生不息、家族兴旺。 41 00:02:28,033 --> 00:02:29,566 Colors and patterns serve 色彩与纹样不只是装饰， 42 00:02:29,566 --> 00:02:31,766 as visual cultural symbols recording 更是维吾尔族解读自然、 43 00:02:31,766 --> 00:02:34,133 Uyghur people's understanding of nature 寄托理想的视觉文化符号。 44 00:02:34,133 --> 00:02:35,033 and good wishes. 寄托理想的视觉文化符号。 45 00:02:35,033 --> 00:02:40,733 5.3 Atlas Silk: Origins and Development 5.3艾德莱丝绸：起源与发展 46 00:02:40,733 --> 00:02:43,433 Next, we come to the most representative 接下来， 47 00:02:43,433 --> 00:02:44,700 fabric in Uyghur 我们进入维吾尔族服饰中最具代表性的 48 00:02:44,700 --> 00:02:45,933 costumes – atlas silk. 织物——艾特莱斯绸。" 49 00:02:45,933 --> 00:02:47,766 "Atlas" means "tie dyed silk" 艾特莱斯"在维吾尔语中 50 00:02:47,766 --> 00:02:49,400 in the Uyghur language. 意为"扎染的丝绸"。 51 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:52,266 There is an ancient legend about its 意为"扎染的丝绸"。 52 00:02:52,266 --> 00:02:53,500 origin: it is said that a weaver 意为"扎染的丝绸"。 53 00:02:53,500 --> 00:02:56,033 in Kashgar dreamed of celestial maidens 意为"扎染的丝绸"。 54 00:02:56,033 --> 00:02:58,000 dancing among colorful clouds. 意为"扎染的丝绸"。 55 00:02:58,000 --> 00:03:00,533 After waking up, he wove a dreamlike cloth 关于它的起源，有一个古老的传说：相传， 56 00:03:00,533 --> 00:03:03,100 using silk threads and natural plant dyes, 喀什的一位织工梦见天女在七色云霞中舞蹈， 57 00:03:03,100 --> 00:03:04,166 which was the 醒来后便以蚕丝和植物染料织出了如梦似幻的 58 00:03:04,166 --> 00:03:05,233 earliest atlas silk. 布匹，这便是最早的艾特莱斯绸。 59 00:03:05,233 --> 00:03:07,533 Historically, with the prosperity 在历史上，随着丝绸之路的兴盛， 60 00:03:07,533 --> 00:03:09,533 of the Silk Road, the atlas silk 艾特莱斯工艺在中亚与新疆地区广泛传播， 61 00:03:09,533 --> 00:03:11,500 craftsmanship spread widely 逐渐成为维吾尔族服饰文化中 62 00:03:11,500 --> 00:03:13,866 in Central Asia and the Xinjiang region, 不可替代的元素。 63 00:03:13,866 --> 00:03:17,566 gradually becoming an irreplaceable 不可替代的元素。 64 00:03:17,566 --> 00:03:18,933 element in Uyghur costume culture. 不可替代的元素。 65 00:03:18,933 --> 00:03:22,466 It not only carries the memories 它既承载了丝路贸易的记忆， 66 00:03:22,466 --> 00:03:24,133 of Silk Road trade, but also reflects the 也折射出中西文化交融的轨迹。 67 00:03:24,133 --> 00:03:25,433 track of cultural integration between 5.4艾特莱斯绸：制作工艺1 68 00:03:25,433 --> 00:03:27,066 China and the West. 5.4艾特莱斯绸：制作工艺1 69 00:03:27,066 --> 00:03:32,733 5.4 Atlas Silk: Production Process (Part 5.4艾特莱斯绸：制作工艺1 70 00:03:32,733 --> 00:03:33,033 one) 5.4艾特莱斯绸：制作工艺1 71 00:03:33,033 --> 00:03:35,133 The production of atlas silk is an 艾特莱斯的制作是一项极其繁复的手工艺术。 72 00:03:35,133 --> 00:03:37,233 extremely intricate handicraft. 艾特莱斯的制作是一项极其繁复的手工艺术。 73 00:03:37,233 --> 00 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）