7. 欧洲 “中国风 Chinoiserie”—— 丝绸催生的近代全球审美

1. 丝绸不只是商品，还是什么？
2. 早期中西贸易，西方是顺差还是逆差？
3. 中国风时尚怎么传到欧洲的？
4. 它和传统西方服饰有啥区别？
5. 除了拜占庭，还有谁变了？

1. Silk is not just a commodity, but what else?
2. In early Sino-Western trade, did the West have a trade surplus or deficit?
3. How did Chinoiserie fashion spread to Europe?
4. How is it different from traditional Western clothing?
5. Besides the Byzantine Empire, who else changed?

1 00:01:31,900 --> 00:01:34,866 7.2 Mechanism of Western Dissemination 2 00:01:34,866 --> 00:01:37,566 for Eastern Lifestyle & Fashion Trends 3 00:01:37,566 --> 00:01:39,966 So how exactly does fashion information 4 00:01:39,966 --> 00:01:42,566 from the East enter and influence the West? 5 00:01:42,566 --> 00:01:45,166 It can be understood using a modern concept— 6 00:01:45,166 --> 00:01:48,333 a cross-cultural communication model of 7 00:01:48,333 --> 00:01:50,533 "visual narrative plus opinion leader promotion" 8 00:01:51,133 --> 00:01:53,733 First, there were publications 9 00:01:53,733 --> 00:01:55,100 For example 10 00:01:55,100 --> 00:01:56,600 the 1655 publication 11 00:01:56,600 --> 00:01:58,200 "The First Visit of the Dutch to China" 12 00:01:58,200 --> 00:02:01,233 vividly depicted Chinese customs 13 00:02:01,233 --> 00:02:01,900 culture 14 00:02:01,900 --> 00:02:05,166 and clothing with numerous woodblock prints 15 00:02:05,166 --> 00:02:07,033 becoming an important "window" 16 00:02:07,033 --> 00:02:09,166 for Europeans to understand China 17 00:02:09,166 --> 00:02:10,100 Secondly 18 00:02:10,100 --> 00:02:12,166 there was media dissemination 19 00:02:12,166 --> 00:02:14,633 With the development of printing technology 20 00:02:14,633 --> 00:02:18,300 fashion prints and fashion magazines emerged 21 00:02:18,300 --> 00:02:19,566 For example 22 00:02:19,566 --> 00:02:21,233 the magazine "Elegance" 23 00:02:21,233 --> 00:02:24,200 founded in France in 1785 24 00:02:24,200 --> 00:02:27,566 contained numerous depictions of Oriental clothing 25 00:02:27,566 --> 00:02:30,066 quickly spreading Oriental trends 26 00:02:30,066 --> 00:02:32,500 to fashion enthusiasts in Europe 27 00:02:32,500 --> 00:02:33,366 Finally 28 00:02:33,366 --> 00:02:35,000 there was the social impact 29 00:02:35,000 --> 00:02:35,733 At the time 30 00:02:35,733 --> 00:02:39,000 silk from the East was considered a top luxury item 31 00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:42,033 accessible only to royalty and nobility 32 00:02:42,033 --> 00:02:42,733 Therefore 33 00:02:42,733 --> 00:02:45,533 when fashion icons like Madame de Pompadour 34 00:02:45,533 --> 00:02:48,366 and Marie Antoinette embraced "Chinoiserie" 35 00:02:48,366 --> 00:02:52,366 this upper-class trend undoubtedly challenged 36 00:02:52,366 --> 00:02:54,200 the cultural and hierarchical order 37 00:02:54,200 --> 00:02:56,333 of traditional Western clothing 38 00:02:56,333 --> 00:03:00,400 7.3 Aesthetic Transformation of European Empires 39 00:03:00,400 --> 00:03:04,000 The importation of Chinese silk directly triggered a 40 00:03:04,000 --> 00:03:05,900 revolutionary transformation in the aesthetics 41 00:03:05,900 --> 00:03:07,633 of some Western empires 42 00:03:07,633 --> 00:03:11,400 with the Byzantine Empire being a classic example 43 00:03:11,400 --> 00:03:14,200 Before the introduction of Chinese silk 44 00:03:14,200 --> 00:03:17,066 Byzantine clothing mainly continued the simple 45 00:03:17,066 --> 00:03:19,533 style of the late Roman Empire 46 00:03:19,533 --> 00:03:23,333 A representative garment was a robe called "Dalmatica 47 00:03:23,333 --> 00:03:24,500 " which was loose-fitting 48 00:03:24,500 --> 00:03:25,766 monochromatic 49 00:03:25,766 --> 00:03:29,000 and decorated primarily with religious symbols 50 00:03:29,000 --> 00:03:31,500 The function of the clothing was more focused 51 00:03:31,500 --> 00:03:33,800 on covering the body and expressing faith 52 00:03:33,800 --> 00:03:36,400 The introduction of Chinese silk 53 00:03:36,400 --> 00:03:38,566 revolutionized Byzantine clothing design 54 00:03:38,566 --> 00:03:40,866 The availability of luxurious silk 55 00:03:40,866 --> 00:03:42,833 shifted the focus to materials 56 00:03:42,833 --> 00:03:43,366 colors 57 00:03:43,366 --> 00:03:45,300 and surface embellishments 58 00:03:45,300 --> 00:03:46,633 Tassels, piping 59 00:03:46,633 --> 00:03:50,133 and gemstone inlays became new fashion elements 60 00:03:50,133 --> 00:03:53,233 Clothing was no longer merely for covering the body; 61 00:03:53,233 --> 00:03:57,600 it transformed into a display of social status and power 62 00:03:57,600 --> 00:04:00,766 7.4 What is Chinoiserie? 63 00:04:00,766 --> 00:04:05,000 All this exchange and integration gave rise to an art 64 00:04:05,000 --> 00:04:07,400 trend in 17th and 18th century Europe 65 00:04:07,400 --> 00:04:10,533 known as "Chinoiserie" or "Chinese style" 66 00:04:10,533 --> 00:04:12,666 Its essence is that it is not a purely 67 00:04:12,666 --> 00:04:14,700 authentic Chinese style 68 00:04:14,700 --> 00:04:16,700 but rather a European style that blends 69 00:04:16,700 --> 00:04:18,933 Eastern and Western elements 70 00:04:18,933 --> 00:04:21,533 formed by Europeans' imagination 71 00:04:21,533 --> 00:04:22,400 imitation 72 00:04:22,400 --> 00:04:24,233 and re-creation of China 73 00:04:24,233 --> 00:04:25,900 It encompasses gardens 74 00:04:25,900 --> 00:04:27,733 furniture, porcelain 75 00:04:27,733 --> 00:04:30,166 and our main subject—textiles 76 00:04:30,166 --> 00:04:32,166 This trend was driven by two forces: 77 00:04:32,166 --> 00:04:33,500 on the one hand 78 00:04:33,500 --> 00:04:37,133 the luxurious and elaborate style of Qing Dynasty court 79 00:04:37,133 --> 00:04:39,966 attire in the mid-to-late period— 80 00:04:39,966 --> 00:04:42,400 favoring gold and silver inlay 81 00:04:42,400 --> 00:04:44,700 delicate green and pink hues 82 00:04:44,700 --> 00:04:47,966 and curvaceous silhouettes—perfectly aligned 83 00:04:47,966 --> 00:04:50,933 with the opulent and refine ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）