第二章 汉唐宋戏剧服饰的演变

1. 汉代的“百戏”和周代的礼乐在性质上有什么不同？
2. 汉代扮演神仙的演员，头上戴的羽毛头饰有什么讲究？
3. 汉代的“百戏”和唐代的“参军戏”，哪个更像真正的戏剧？
4. 如果给现代古装剧选角，怎么通过服饰区分汉代神仙？
5. 为什么汉代的戏剧服饰还比较简陋，没有形成完整系统？

1. What’s the main difference between the “Baixi” performances of the Han Dynasty and the ritual music of the Zhou Dynasty?
2. What was the significance of the feather headdresses worn by actors playing gods in the Han Dynasty?
3. Which one is more like real drama: the “Baixi” of the Han Dynasty or the “Canjun Xi” of the Tang Dynasty?
4. If we were casting a modern historical drama, how could we tell Han Dynasty gods apart just by their costumes?
5. Why were Han Dynasty theatrical costumes still quite simple and hadn’t developed into a complete system yet?

1 00:01:45,700 --> 00:01:48,500 2.2 Roadmap: Han, Tang, and Song 2.2 目录：汉、唐、 2 00:01:48,500 --> 00:01:51,900 2.2 Roadmap: Han, Tang, and Song 2.2 目录：汉、唐、宋 3 00:01:51,900 --> 00:01:53,900 Today's journey has three stops: 今天的三站： 4 00:01:53,900 --> 00:01:55,600 the Han Dynasty, 宋 今天的三站： 5 00:01:55,600 --> 00:01:57,100 with the "hundred entertainments" 汉代——百戏表演及其服饰； 6 00:01:57,100 --> 00:01:58,533 and their costume; 汉代——百戏表演及其服饰； 7 00:01:58,533 --> 00:01:59,800 the Tang Dynasty, 汉代——百戏表演及其服饰； 8 00:01:59,800 --> 00:02:01,733 with its dance drama and canjun farce 唐代——歌舞戏和参军戏及其服饰； 9 00:02:01,733 --> 00:02:03,100 and their costume; 唐代——歌舞戏和参军戏及其服饰； 10 00:02:03,100 --> 00:02:04,733 and the Song Dynasty, 唐代——歌舞戏和参军戏及其服饰； 11 00:02:04,733 --> 00:02:07,400 with its folk and court performance traditions and, 宋代——民间歌舞与宫廷歌舞， 12 00:02:07,400 --> 00:02:09,166 most importantly, 以及最重要的： 13 00:02:09,166 --> 00:02:12,133 the emerging theatrical costume system of zaju. 杂剧戏剧服饰体系的形成 14 00:02:12,133 --> 00:02:14,400 2.3 The Han Dynasty: 2.3 汉代： 15 00:02:14,400 --> 00:02:15,200 2.3 The Han Dynasty: 2.3 汉代： 16 00:02:15,200 --> 00:02:17,766 The Hundred Entertainments 百戏表演 先看汉代 17 00:02:17,766 --> 00:02:19,600 First, the Han. 百戏表演 先看汉代 18 00:02:19,600 --> 00:02:22,333 Some background: the Zhou royal court maintained 一点背景： 19 00:02:22,333 --> 00:02:25,000 specialized agencies to manage music 周王室设有专门机构管理乐舞礼仪， 20 00:02:25,000 --> 00:02:25,300 and dance rites, 周王室设有专门机构管理乐舞礼仪， 21 00:02:25,300 --> 00:02:28,133 so Zhou performance was solemn and ceremonial, 因此周朝乐舞表演庄严、肃穆， 22 00:02:28,133 --> 00:02:30,300 strongly religious in character. 具有很强的宗教性和仪式性 23 00:02:30,300 --> 00:02:32,700 After the capital moved east, 东迁以后， 24 00:02:32,700 --> 00:02:33,966 the strict ritual music system 东迁以后， 25 00:02:33,966 --> 00:02:36,366 disintegrated Confucius lamented the 东迁以后， 26 00:02:36,366 --> 00:02:39,533 "collapse of rites and ruin of music" while the 周室严格的礼乐制度开始瓦解—— 27 00:02:39,533 --> 00:02:41,300 music and dance of the feudal lords 孔子斥之为“礼崩乐坏”—— 28 00:02:41,300 --> 00:02:43,300 and the common people flourished. 诸侯和民间乐舞却得到了很大发展 29 00:02:43,300 --> 00:02:45,766 The Han expanded the Music Bureau, 汉代扩大了乐府机构， 30 00:02:45,766 --> 00:02:48,433 collecting and creating music and dance 大量搜集和创造乐舞， 31 00:02:48,433 --> 00:02:50,400 on a large scale and staging grand galas 举行大型百戏汇演 32 00:02:50,400 --> 00:02:52,933 of the hundred entertainments. 举行大型百戏汇演 33 00:02:52,933 --> 00:02:54,333 Zhang Heng's "Rhapsody 举行大型百戏汇演 34 00:02:54,333 --> 00:02:56,900 on the Western Capital" vividly depicts 张衡《西京赋》生动描绘了演出盛况 35 00:02:56,900 --> 00:02:58,433 these spectacles. 张衡《西京赋》生动描绘了演出盛况 36 00:02:58,433 --> 00:03:00,666 Among the programs with genuine role 张衡《西京赋》生动描绘了演出盛况 37 00:03:00,666 --> 00:03:02,166 playing character, 其中具有角色扮演性质的节目， 38 00:03:02,166 --> 00:03:02,633 two stand out: 其中具有角色扮演性质的节目， 39 00:03:02,633 --> 00:03:04,600 "Assembly of Immortals and Performers" 其中具有角色扮演性质的节目， 40 00:03:04,600 --> 00:03:07,533 and "The Yellow Duke of the East Sea." 主要有《总会仙倡》和《东海黄公》。 41 00:03:07,533 --> 00:03:08,466 In the former, 《总会仙倡》里， 42 00:03:08,466 --> 00:03:10,866 performers playing immortal beasts wore 《总会仙倡》里， 43 00:03:10,866 --> 00:03:12,833 corresponding beast shaped headpieces, 扮仙兽者戴相应的兽形套头；扮仙人者则穿毛羽， 44 00:03:12,833 --> 00:03:16,500 while performers playing immortals wore feathers and 扮仙兽者戴相应的兽形套头； 45 00:03:16,500 --> 00:03:18,966 plumes to express the ethereal, 扮仙人者则穿毛羽， 46 00:03:18,966 --> 00:03:20,900 floating quality of the divine scenes 以表现神的空灵飘逸—— 47 00:03:20,900 --> 00:03:23,866 of beasts and immortals dancing together 这种仙兽与仙人共舞的场面及其特有服饰， 48 00:03:23,866 --> 00:03:26,433 that survive in Han pictorial bricks. 在汉代画像砖中留下了形象记载 49 00:03:26,433 --> 00:03:29,600 In sum: whether performed by professional comics 总之：汉代无论俳优还是非俳优演戏， 50 00:03:29,600 --> 00:03:31,433 or by other entertainers, 总之：汉代无论俳优还是非俳优演戏， 51 00:03:31,433 --> 00:03:33,000 Han theatrical costume was mostly 所用服饰多是专门设计、 52 00:03:33,000 --> 00:03:35,766 specially designed and changed with the 所用服饰多是专门设计、 53 00:03:35,766 --> 00:03:36,533 plot. 因剧情而异 54 00:03:36,533 --> 00:03:38,200 The decorative and the illusory two 戏衣的装饰性和虚拟性特点， 55 00:03:38,200 --> 00:03:40,333 essential traits of stage costume were 戏衣的装饰性和虚拟性特点， 56 00:03:40,333 --> 00:03:41,233 already emerging. 已渐露端倪 57 00:03:41,233 --> 00:03:43,400 2.4 The Tang Dynasty: 2.4 唐代： 58 00:03:43,400 --> 00:03:44,466 2.4 The Tang Dynasty: 2.4 唐代： 59 00:03:44,466 --> 00:03:47,233 canjun Farce and Its Costume 参军戏及其服饰 唐代国势强大、 60 00:03:47,233 --> 00:03:48,933 The Tang Dynasty's strength 参军戏及其服饰 唐代国势强大、 61 00:03:48,933 --> 00:03:52,266 and prosperity created the conditions for art. 经济繁荣，为艺术发展创造了条件 62 00:03:52,266 --> 00:03:54,633 Tang performance split into two types: 唐代表演分两类： 63 00:03:54,633 --> 00:03:58,033 "kebai" farce comic performance by entertainers, 一是科白戏——俳优以科诨方式进行的滑稽表演， 64 00:03:58,033 --> 00:04:00,000 aimed at satirizing people and affairs 目的在于讽刺社会的人和事并获得娱乐； 65 00:04:00,000 --> 00:04:02,033 while entertaining and song 目的在于讽刺社会的人和事并获得娱乐； 66 00:04:02,033 --> 00:04:03,266 dance drama. 目的在于讽刺社会的人和事并获得娱乐； 67 00:04:03,266 --> 00:04:06,500 The canjun farce is the exemplary kebai drama. 二是歌舞戏。参军戏是典型的科白戏， 68 00:04:06,500 --> 00:04:07,666 It had two roles: 有两个角色： 69 00:04:07,666 --> 00:04:10,066 the "canjun," the officer being mocked, 被戏弄的“参军”和戏弄参军的“苍鹘” 70 00:04:10,066 --> 00:04:12,500 and the "canghu," the mocker. 被戏弄的“参军”和戏弄参军的“苍鹘” 71 00:04:12,500 --> 00:04:15,200 The canjun imitated various figures, 参军经常模仿各种人物，服饰因事而异， 72 00:04:15,20 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）