第一章：亮“行头”风采 · 戏剧服饰溯源

1. 戏剧服装到底是给人穿，还是给人“变”的？
2. 原始巫术祭祀里，猎人假扮动物是为了啥？
3. 日常汉服和戏曲戏服，本质区别在哪？
4. 如果演孙悟空，除了金箍棒，服装咋帮忙？
5. 古代祭祀那种“人扮神”，算不算最早的戏服？

1. Is costume design mainly for wearing, or for transforming the actor?
2. In early shamanic rituals, why did hunters dress up as animals?
3. What is the main difference between daily Hanfu and traditional opera costumes?
4. If I play Sun Wukong, how does the costume help besides the golden staff?
5. Is ancient ritual costume, where people dressed as gods, considered the earliest form of theatrical costume?

1 00:01:02,433 --> 00:01:05,166 1.1 What Is Theatrical Costume? 1.1 关于戏服 2 00:01:05,166 --> 00:01:07,433 1.1 What Is Theatrical Costume? 1.1 关于戏服 3 00:01:07,433 --> 00:01:08,666 Let us begin with the scholar 中国近代戏剧学奠基人王国维说起。 4 00:01:08,666 --> 00:01:10,166 Wang Guowei, the founder of 中国近代戏剧学奠基人王国维说起。 5 00:01:10,166 --> 00:01:11,433 Wang Guowei, the founder of 中国近代戏剧学奠基人王国维说起。 6 00:01:11,433 --> 00:01:13,500 modern Chinese theater studies. 中国近代戏剧学奠基人王国维说起。 7 00:01:13,500 --> 00:01:13,666 In his view, 他认为， 8 00:01:13,666 --> 00:01:14,600 the core of the theatrical concept is 戏剧概念的核心是“以歌舞演故事” 9 00:01:14,600 --> 00:01:16,333 the core of the theatrical concept is 戏剧概念的核心是“以歌舞演故事” 10 00:01:16,333 --> 00:01:17,466 "performing a story 戏剧概念的核心是“以歌舞演故事” 11 00:01:17,466 --> 00:01:19,566 through song and dance.“ 戏剧概念的核心是“以歌舞演故事” 12 00:01:19,566 --> 00:01:20,600 Yet the true essence 然而戏剧的真正本质既不在歌舞处， 13 00:01:20,600 --> 00:01:22,766 of theater lies neither in the song 然而戏剧的真正本质既不在歌舞处， 14 00:01:22,766 --> 00:01:24,066 and dance alone, 然而戏剧的真正本质既不在歌舞处， 15 00:01:24,066 --> 00:01:25,866 nor in the story alone, 又不在故事处， 16 00:01:25,866 --> 00:01:26,866 but in the connection 又不在故事处， 17 00:01:26,866 --> 00:01:28,466 between the two in the act 又不在故事处， 18 00:01:28,466 --> 00:01:29,900 of "performing.” 而在两者的关联处——“演”。所谓“演”， 19 00:01:29,900 --> 00:01:31,233 To perform means role playing: 即角色扮演： 20 00:01:31,233 --> 00:01:33,300 an actor impersonates a character 演员假扮某种角色进行表演 21 00:01:33,300 --> 00:01:35,033 and performs as that character. 演员假扮某种角色进行表演 22 00:01:35,033 --> 00:01:37,000 Now consider clothing. 再看服装 23 00:01:37,000 --> 00:01:37,866 The meaning of 服饰的意义是装扮穿着者——通过人的穿着 24 00:01:37,866 --> 00:01:39,000 costume is to dress 使人产生形象的改变， 25 00:01:39,000 --> 00:01:40,100 and transform the 服饰的意义是装扮穿着者——通过人的穿着 26 00:01:40,100 --> 00:01:41,533 wearer through wearing, 使人产生形象的改变， 27 00:01:41,533 --> 00:01:42,033 a person's 服饰的意义是装扮穿着者——通过人的穿着 28 00:01:42,033 --> 00:01:43,200 image changes, 使人产生形象的改变， 29 00:01:43,200 --> 00:01:44,266 and this naturally 其中自然包括了角色形象的改变 30 00:01:44,266 --> 00:01:46,033 includes the change into a 其中自然包括了角色形象的改变 31 00:01:46,033 --> 00:01:47,533 role's image. 其中自然包括了角色形象的改变 32 00:01:47,533 --> 00:01:48,666 Put the two together 把两者放在一起， 33 00:01:48,666 --> 00:01:50,166 and we arrive at the essence 把两者放在一起， 34 00:01:50,166 --> 00:01:51,400 of theatrical costume: 就得到戏剧服饰的本质： 35 00:01:51,400 --> 00:01:52,533 it embodies both the character 它既体现服饰的特征， 36 00:01:52,533 --> 00:01:55,666 of clothing and the demands of theater 它既体现服饰的特征， 37 00:01:55,666 --> 00:01:56,766 through the wearing 又反映戏剧的要求——通过演员（或角色）的 38 00:01:56,766 --> 00:01:57,600 by the actor, 穿着来实现角色转换 39 00:01:57,600 --> 00:01:57,933 or by 又反映戏剧的要求——通过演员（或角色）的 40 00:01:57,933 --> 00:01:58,833 the role, 穿着来实现角色转换 41 00:01:58,833 --> 00:02:00,133 the transformation of 又反映戏剧的要求——通过演员（或角色）的 42 00:02:00,133 --> 00:02:01,800 character is achieved. 穿着来实现角色转换 43 00:02:01,800 --> 00:02:03,033 In other words, 换句话说， 44 00:02:03,033 --> 00:02:04,500 theatrical costume is the 戏剧服饰是一台“变形机器”： 45 00:02:04,500 --> 00:02:06,000 machine of metamorphosis: 戏剧服饰是一台“变形机器”： 46 00:02:06,000 --> 00:02:08,466 the moment the actor puts on the costume, 演员穿上戏服的那一刻， 47 00:02:08,466 --> 00:02:10,533 someone else steps onto the stage. 另一个人就登上了舞台 48 00:02:10,533 --> 00:02:12,900 1.2 Origins: Totem and 1.2 戏剧服饰溯源：图腾与巫术 49 00:02:12,900 --> 00:02:13,700 Shamanistic Performance 1.2 戏剧服饰溯源：图腾与巫术 50 00:02:13,700 --> 00:02:16,400 Shamanistic Performance 1.2 戏剧服饰溯源：图腾与巫术 51 00:02:16,400 --> 00:02:17,300 Where did this 这种实践从何开始？ 52 00:02:17,300 --> 00:02:18,500 practice begin? 这种实践从何开始？ 53 00:02:18,500 --> 00:02:19,433 In remote antiquity, 在远古时期， 54 00:02:19,433 --> 00:02:20,066 In remote antiquity, 在远古时期， 55 00:02:20,066 --> 00:02:20,733 early theatrical 人类社会早期的戏剧服饰实践已蕴含角色扮演 56 00:02:20,733 --> 00:02:21,733 costume practice already 的初步意识 57 00:02:21,733 --> 00:02:22,800 contained the 人类社会早期的戏剧服饰实践已蕴含角色扮演 58 00:02:22,800 --> 00:02:24,033 first awareness 的初步意识 59 00:02:24,033 --> 00:02:24,533 of role playing. 人类社会早期的戏剧服饰实践已蕴含角色扮演 60 00:02:24,533 --> 00:02:25,233 的初步意识 61 00:02:25,233 --> 00:02:25,866 This role 人类社会早期的戏剧服饰实践已蕴含角色扮演 62 00:02:25,866 --> 00:02:27,100 playing responded 的初步意识 63 00:02:27,100 --> 00:02:27,900 to nature worship 这种角色扮演既是对自然崇拜和社会仪式的 64 00:02:27,900 --> 00:02:29,333 and social ritual, 响应， 65 00:02:29,333 --> 00:02:30,000 and it was 这种角色扮演既是对自然崇拜和社会仪式的 66 00:02:30,000 --> 00:02:30,666 also part 响应， 67 00:02:30,666 --> 00:02:32,600 of humanity's self expression 也是人类自我表达与认同探索的一部分 68 00:02:32,600 --> 00:02:34,933 and exploration of identity. 也是人类自我表达与认同探索的一部分 69 00:02:34,933 --> 00:02:36,166 Primitive shamanism 原始巫术与祭祀狂欢成为戏剧服饰发展的 70 00:02:36,166 --> 00:02:37,133 and sacrificial 重要起点： 71 00:02:37,133 --> 00:02:38,333 carnival became the 原始巫术与祭祀狂欢成为戏剧服饰发展的 72 00:02:38,333 --> 00:02:39,733 crucial starting point 重要起点： 73 00:02:39,733 --> 00:02:40,433 of theatrical 原始巫术与祭祀狂欢成为戏剧服饰发展的 74 00:02:40,433 --> 00:02:41,866 costume's development: 重要起点： 75 00:02:41,866 --> 00:02:42,733 they expressed 原始巫术与祭祀狂欢成为戏剧服饰发展的 76 00:02:42,733 --> 00:02:44,033 early humans’ awe 重要起点： 77 00:02:44,033 --> 00:02:46,100 of supernatural power, 它们体现了早期人类对超自然力量的敬畏， 78 00:02:46,100 --> 00:02:46,933 and laid the foundation 它们体现了早期人类对超自然力量的敬畏， 79 00:02:46,933 --> 00:02:48,700 for the later functionality 也为后来戏曲服饰的 80 00:02:48,700 --> 00:02:49,600 and diversity of opera costume. 功能性和多样性奠定了基础 81 00:02:49,600 --> 00:02:5 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）