第七章 Uma Wang：彰显风雅洒脱

1. Uma Wang 和前面章节的设计师处理宋装，思路有什么根本不同？
2. 脚本里提到的“含蓄的女性主义”，具体是指设计上的什么表现？
3. “道法自然”在 Uma Wang 的设计中，和直接引用传统元素有什么区别？
4. 如果让我设计一件体现“宋风雅韵”的衣服，该怎么运用这种抽象手法？
5. 既然不直接照搬宋装，Uma Wang 是怎么让观众感受到那种风雅气质的？

1. How is Uma Wang's approach to Song dynasty styles fundamentally different from the designers we discussed earlier?
2. What specific design features does the script mean by "subtle feminism"?
3. How is the concept of "Dao follows nature" in Uma Wang's work different from directly using traditional elements?
4. If I were to design a piece of clothing that reflects the elegance of the Song dynasty, how should I use this abstract approach?
5. Since she doesn't copy Song dynasty styles directly, how does Uma Wang make the audience feel that elegant atmosphere?

1 00:01:16,500 --> 00:01:19,533 7.2 The Core Positioning 7.2 品牌与设计师核心定位 2 00:01:19,533 --> 00:01:21,700 of Brand and Designer 7.2 品牌与设计师核心定位 3 00:01:21,700 --> 00:01:23,466 The designer is Wang Zhi, 设计师是王汁， 4 00:01:23,466 --> 00:01:25,933 known internationally as Uma Wang. 国际品牌名为UmaWang。 5 00:01:25,933 --> 00:01:28,600 She grew up steeped in traditional Chinese 她自小浸润中国传统文化， 6 00:01:28,600 --> 00:01:30,700 culture, which gave her an unusual 形成了对织物的独特感知力与深刻理解。 7 00:01:30,700 --> 00:01:32,233 sensitivity to textiles 形成了对织物的独特感知力与深刻理解。 8 00:01:32,233 --> 00:01:35,300 and a profound understanding of fabric. 形成了对织物的独特感知力与深刻理解。 9 00:01:35,300 --> 00:01:37,000 Her style has been described 其设计风格被誉为"低调好品味"——兼具东 10 00:01:37,000 --> 00:01:39,233 as "understated good taste" combining 方神韵与国际审美， 11 00:01:39,233 --> 00:01:42,066 Oriental spirit with international 聚焦内在精神的表达而非表面装饰。 12 00:01:42,066 --> 00:01:44,333 aesthetics, and always focused on inner, 品牌设计理念立在三个支点上： 13 00:01:44,333 --> 00:01:46,766 spiritual expression rather than surface 品牌设计理念立在三个支点上： 14 00:01:46,766 --> 00:01:47,700 decoration. 品牌设计理念立在三个支点上： 15 00:01:47,700 --> 00:01:49,666 The brand's design philosophy rests 柔和隐匿的女性主义、 16 00:01:49,666 --> 00:01:51,133 on three pillars: a soft 质感为上的工匠精神、追求超越时尚的风雅。 17 00:01:51,133 --> 00:01:53,833 and hidden feminism, a craftsman's 请记住"隐匿"这个词——它将在 18 00:01:53,833 --> 00:01:55,933 devotion to texture above all, 本章反复出现。 19 00:01:55,933 --> 00:01:57,466 and the pursuit of an 本章反复出现。 20 00:01:57,466 --> 00:02:00,033 elegance that transcends fashion itself. 本章反复出现。 21 00:02:00,033 --> 00:02:01,866 Note that word "hidden" it will return 两个细节可以说明这个签名走得多远。 22 00:02:01,866 --> 00:02:03,766 again and again in this chapter. 两个细节可以说明这个签名走得多远。 23 00:02:03,766 --> 00:02:05,700 Two details tell us how far this signature 一是UmaWang的商标本身， 24 00:02:05,700 --> 00:02:07,433 has traveled. 一是UmaWang的商标本身， 25 00:02:07,433 --> 00:02:10,166 One is the Uma Wang trademark itself, 已是国际时装市场上注册在案、 26 00:02:10,166 --> 00:02:11,533 now a registered presence across 广为人知的存在。二是大银幕： 27 00:02:11,533 --> 00:02:14,000 international fashion markets. 广为人知的存在。二是大银幕： 28 00:02:14,000 --> 00:02:16,100 The other is the big screen: UmaWang为姜文电影《邪不压正》打造 29 00:02:16,100 --> 00:02:18,266 Uma Wang created the striking cheongsam 了令人印象深刻的服装。 30 00:02:18,266 --> 00:02:20,766 like costumes in Jiang Wen's film "Hidden 了令人印象深刻的服装。 31 00:02:20,766 --> 00:02:23,666 Man" "Evil Does Not Win Over Good." 了令人印象深刻的服装。 32 00:02:23,666 --> 00:02:25,433 When a director wants clothing 当一位导演需要服装同时承载时代氛围、 33 00:02:25,433 --> 00:02:28,000 that carries period atmosphere, mood, 情绪与人物性格时，他找的就是这位设计师。 34 00:02:28,000 --> 00:02:29,900 and character all at once, 情绪与人物性格时，他找的就是这位设计师。 35 00:02:29,900 --> 00:02:32,033 this is the designer he calls. 情绪与人物性格时，他找的就是这位设计师。 36 00:02:32,033 --> 00:02:34,000 The brand's language of elegance, 换句话说， 37 00:02:34,000 --> 00:02:34,766 in other words, 这个品牌的风雅语言， 38 00:02:34,766 --> 00:02:36,066 has been recognized well 早已在秀场之外得到认可。 39 00:02:36,066 --> 00:02:37,433 beyond the runway. 早已在秀场之外得到认可。 40 00:02:37,433 --> 00:02:41,100 7.3 The Cultural Foundation: 7.3 设计理念的文化根基： 41 00:02:41,100 --> 00:02:41,400 7.3 The Cultural Foundation: 7.3 设计理念的文化根基： 42 00:02:41,400 --> 00:02:43,933 Traditional Philosophy at Work 7.3设计理念的文化根基： 43 00:02:43,933 --> 00:02:46,633 Where does this design language come from? 传统哲学赋能这套设计语言从何而来？ 44 00:02:46,633 --> 00:02:49,400 From three core philosophical ideas. 来自三大核心哲学思想。 45 00:02:49,400 --> 00:02:50,500 First, "Dao follows nature": 第一，道法自然：不刻意堆砌传统元素， 46 00:02:50,500 --> 00:02:53,500 she never piles up traditional elements 设计灵感通过廓型、剪裁、 47 00:02:53,500 --> 00:02:54,666 deliberately; 色彩自然呈现——契合宋代"天人合一"的 48 00:02:54,666 --> 00:02:57,033 the design intention passes naturally 审美追求。 49 00:02:57,033 --> 00:02:58,766 through silhouette, cut, 审美追求。 50 00:02:58,766 --> 00:03:00,633 and color matching the Song pursuit 审美追求。 51 00:03:00,633 --> 00:03:03,733 of "unity of heaven and humanity. 审美追求。 52 00:03:03,733 --> 00:03:04,766 " Second, imagistic thinking: 第二，意象思维： 53 00:03:04,766 --> 00:03:06,700 she replaces plain statement 以"感知"替代"直白表达"， 54 00:03:06,700 --> 00:03:09,033 with perception, letting the spirit 通过服饰的神韵与状态体现宋韵雅致， 55 00:03:09,033 --> 00:03:11,933 and the state of the garment convey Song 通过服饰的神韵与状态体现宋韵雅致， 56 00:03:11,933 --> 00:03:12,733 elegance, and 通过服饰的神韵与状态体现宋韵雅致， 57 00:03:12,733 --> 00:03:15,000 refusing literal reproduction. 通过服饰的神韵与状态体现宋韵雅致， 58 00:03:15,000 --> 00:03:17,266 Third, "all things return to one": 拒绝具象化复刻。第三， 59 00:03:17,266 --> 00:03:19,533 she fuses surface and essence, 万物归一：融合表象与本质， 60 00:03:19,533 --> 00:03:22,800 East and West, tradition and modernity, 实现东西方元素、 61 00:03:22,800 --> 00:03:24,833 in a reserved unity that echoes 传统与现代工艺的含蓄统一， 62 00:03:24,833 --> 00:03:26,200 the Song ideal 传统与现代工艺的含蓄统一， 63 00:03:26,200 --> 00:03:28,833 of "beauty of balance and harmony." 传统与现代工艺的含蓄统一， 64 00:03:28,833 --> 00:03:29,933 These connect directly 呼应宋代"中和之美"。 65 00:03:29,933 --> 00:03:31,733 to Song Neo Confucianism: 这些思想直接承接宋代理学"格物致知"的 66 00:03:31,733 --> 00:03:33,600 the spirit of "investigating things 造物精神——追求服饰的本真之美、 67 00:03:33,600 --> 00:03:35,933 to attain knowledge" in the making 摒弃浮华装饰； 68 00:03:35,933 --> 00:03:37,366 of objects, pursuing the 也延续宋代文人"内省""向自然"的 69 00:03:37,366 --> 00:03:39,033 authentic beauty of clothing 精神内核， 70 00:03:39,033 --> 00:03:41,800 and discarding ostentatious ornament; 在设计中注入对生命与自然的深刻思考。 71 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:44,233 and the literati spirit of introsp ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）