第六章 三寸盛京：宋韵华服的现代觉醒

1. 张慧琴教授，三寸盛京名字里的“三”有什么道家含义？
2. 创始人张燕2015年创立时，具体设立了哪两个品牌？
3. 宋韵华服和现代日常穿搭，在设计理念上最大的区别是什么？
4. 如果让我设计一件宋风服饰，该如何结合传统刺绣与现代剪裁？
5. 为什么张燕能被国际媒体称为最年轻的“中国设计力量”？

1. Professor Zhang Huiqin, what is the Daoist meaning behind the "three" in the name "San Cun Sheng Jing"?
2. When founder Zhang Yan started the company in 2015, which two specific brands did she set up?
3. What is the biggest difference in design philosophy between Song-style traditional clothing and modern daily wear?
4. If I were to design a Song-style outfit, how could I combine traditional embroidery with modern tailoring?
5. Why is Zhang Yan called the youngest "Chinese design force" by international media?

1 00:01:23,000 --> 00:01:26,433 6.1 The Origin of the Brand: 6.1 品牌缘起： 2 00:01:26,433 --> 00:01:28,300 The Birth of Oriental Aesthetics 东方美学的诞生 3 00:01:28,300 --> 00:01:29,700 The Birth of Oriental Aesthetics 东方美学的诞生 4 00:01:29,700 --> 00:01:31,600 The founder is Zhang Yan, 品牌创始人是华人设计师张彦， 5 00:01:31,600 --> 00:01:33,233 a Chinese fashion designer born 品牌创立于2015年， 6 00:01:33,233 --> 00:01:35,166 into the young generation. 品牌创立于2015年， 7 00:01:35,166 --> 00:01:37,900 He established the brand in 2015, 旗下拥有三寸盛京与成锦衣局TURANZZ 8 00:01:37,900 --> 00:01:40,633 when he created two labels: 两个服装品牌。 9 00:01:40,633 --> 00:01:42,366 San Cun Sheng Jing and Cheng Jin Yi Ju, 两个服装品牌。 10 00:01:42,366 --> 00:01:43,833 TURANZZ. 两个服装品牌。 11 00:01:43,833 --> 00:01:45,500 He is a member of the Fashion Art 他是中国服装设计师协会时装艺术委员会 12 00:01:45,500 --> 00:01:47,200 Committee of the China Fashion 会员，早年便痴迷于中式服饰文化的研究， 13 00:01:47,200 --> 00:01:49,466 Association, and he has been obsessed 会员，早年便痴迷于中式服饰文化的研究， 14 00:01:49,466 --> 00:01:51,300 with the study of traditional Chinese 会员，早年便痴迷于中式服饰文化的研究， 15 00:01:51,300 --> 00:01:52,133 dress 会员，早年便痴迷于中式服饰文化的研究， 16 00:01:52,133 --> 00:01:54,033 since his early years. 会员，早年便痴迷于中式服饰文化的研究， 17 00:01:54,033 --> 00:01:57,833 With rare artistic talent and creativity, 凭借独特的艺术天赋与创造力， 18 00:01:57,833 --> 00:01:59,833 he has become one of the most influential 成为年轻一代最具影响力的华服设计师之一。 19 00:01:59,833 --> 00:02:03,300 young designers of Chinese style clothing. 成为年轻一代最具影响力的华服设计师之一。 20 00:02:03,300 --> 00:02:05,200 The founding intention was simple 品牌的创立初衷朴实而有抱负： 21 00:02:05,200 --> 00:02:06,833 but ambitious: to learn humbly 虚心向顶级传统手工艺人求教， 22 00:02:06,833 --> 00:02:08,033 from master artisans 让中国传统面料与刺绣工艺重新融入现代 23 00:02:08,033 --> 00:02:09,666 of traditional handcrafts, 生活。 24 00:02:09,666 --> 00:02:12,000 and to bring Chinese traditional 生活。 25 00:02:12,000 --> 00:02:14,166 fabrics and embroidery techniques back 生活。 26 00:02:14,166 --> 00:02:15,800 into modern daily life. 生活。 27 00:02:15,800 --> 00:02:18,166 The core mission is to showcase the beauty 核心使命是展示传统与现代、 28 00:02:18,166 --> 00:02:20,666 of fusion between tradition and modernity, 东方与西方的融合之美。 29 00:02:20,666 --> 00:02:22,300 between East and West. 东方与西方的融合之美。 30 00:02:22,300 --> 00:02:23,800 In 2019, international 2019年，他被 31 00:02:23,800 --> 00:02:25,066 media named him the 国际媒体评为"登上纽约时装周最年轻的 32 00:02:25,066 --> 00:02:27,600 youngest Chinese style designer ever 华服设计师"， 33 00:02:27,600 --> 00:02:30,133 to appear at New York Fashion Week, 是最受国际媒体喜爱的"中国设计力量"。 34 00:02:30,133 --> 00:02:31,900 and praised him as one of the 是最受国际媒体喜爱的"中国设计力量"。 35 00:02:31,900 --> 00:02:34,700 most beloved "Chinese design forces" among 是最受国际媒体喜爱的"中国设计力量"。 36 00:02:34,700 --> 00:02:36,000 global media. 是最受国际媒体喜爱的"中国设计力量"。 37 00:02:36,000 --> 00:02:39,500 6.2 Decoding the Brand Name: 6.2 品牌名解读： 38 00:02:39,500 --> 00:02:39,800 Decoding the Brand Name: 文化与哲学 39 00:02:39,800 --> 00:02:41,800 Culture and Philosophy 文化与哲学 40 00:02:41,800 --> 00:02:44,600 The name itself carries a philosophy. 品牌名本身就承载着哲学。 41 00:02:44,600 --> 00:02:46,400 "San Cun" three inches comes "三寸"取自道家学说： 42 00:02:46,400 --> 00:02:48,833 from Daoist thought: one begets two, 一生二， 43 00:02:48,833 --> 00:02:51,300 two begets three, and three begets all 二生三， 44 00:02:51,300 --> 00:02:52,266 things. 二生三， 45 00:02:52,266 --> 00:02:55,400 Three, therefore, symbolizes the power 三生万物——"三"寓意着创造的力量。" 46 00:02:55,400 --> 00:02:56,700 of creation. 三生万物——"三"寓意着创造的力量。" 47 00:02:56,700 --> 00:02:58,766 "Shengjing" is the old name of Shenyang, 盛京"是沈阳的古称，一朝发源地、 48 00:02:58,766 --> 00:03:00,800 the city where a dynasty was founded 两代帝王都：它有千年前的荒芜与丰沃， 49 00:03:00,800 --> 00:03:03,100 and two emperors once ruled a place 有百年前的衰败与昌盛， 50 00:03:03,100 --> 00:03:05,533 that has known desolation and fertility a 是人类智慧发展的见证。 51 00:03:05,533 --> 00:03:06,966 thousand years ago, decline 品牌之名由此将"创造"与"历史"、 52 00:03:06,966 --> 00:03:09,666 and prosperity a century ago, 品牌之名由此将"创造"与"历史"、 53 00:03:09,666 --> 00:03:12,166 and stands as a witness to human wisdom. 品牌之名由此将"创造"与"历史"、 54 00:03:12,166 --> 00:03:14,900 The name thus joins creation and history, "哲学"与"地方"联结在一起。 55 00:03:14,900 --> 00:03:16,700 philosophy and place. "哲学"与"地方"联结在一起。 56 00:03:16,700 --> 00:03:19,133 Rooted in Chinese civilization, 品牌以华夏文明为根基， 57 00:03:19,133 --> 00:03:21,233 the brand creates what it calls new 创造新概念式华服， 58 00:03:21,233 --> 00:03:23,300 concept Chinese couture, 在国内外收获了众多粉丝的喜爱与追捧。 59 00:03:23,300 --> 00:03:25,566 and it has won devoted followers both at 在国内外收获了众多粉丝的喜爱与追捧。 60 00:03:25,566 --> 00:03:26,400 home and 在国内外收获了众多粉丝的喜爱与追捧。 61 00:03:26,400 --> 00:03:27,333 abroad. 在国内外收获了众多粉丝的喜爱与追捧。 62 00:03:27,333 --> 00:03:30,300 Its runway pieces such as "Kai Tian, 其秀场作品——如游泳奥运冠军张雨霏所穿 63 00:03:30,300 --> 00:03:31,600 " the Opening of Heaven, 的"开天"、 64 00:03:31,600 --> 00:03:34,700 worn by Olympic swimmer Zhang Yufei, 演员张凌赫演绎的2023春夏"昆仑听 65 00:03:34,700 --> 00:03:35,933 and the "Kunlun Listening 雪"系列——正说明它已在为 66 00:03:35,933 --> 00:03:39,400 to Snow" collection of Spring Summer 2023 新一代偶像着装。 67 00:03:39,400 --> 00:03:41,800 presented by actor Zhang Linghe show how 新一代偶像着装。 68 00:03:41,800 --> 00:03:43,400 the brand dresses the icons 新一代偶像着装。 69 00:03:43,400 --> 00:03:44,900 of a new generation. 新一代偶像着装。 70 00:03:44,900 --> 00:03:48,433 6.3 Song Style Design: 6.3 宋韵设计： 71 00:03:48,433 --> 00:03:50,633 Tracing the Inspiration 灵感溯源 72 00:03:50,633 --> 00:03:52,200 Where does the Song character 设计的"宋韵"从何而来？ 73 00:03:52,200 --> 00:03:53 ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）