第四章 传承创新

1. 宋美学的“雅”和现在的极简风到底是一回事吗？
2. 杭州亚运会礼服的颜色，具体对应了哪些宋代雅事？
3. 宋制汉服和Grace Chen的GC-6廓形，区别在哪？
4. 如果我想日常穿出宋代雅致感，该怎么搭配衣服？
5. 宋代士大夫的“内在修养”，今天还能通过穿搭体现吗？

1. Is the Song aesthetic concept of "elegance" the same as today's minimalist style?
2. Which specific Song dynasty refined activities do the colors of the Hangzhou Asian Games uniforms represent?
3. What’s the difference between Song-style Hanfu and Grace Chen’s GC-6 silhouette?
4. How can I dress in a way that reflects Song dynasty elegance for everyday wear?
5. Can we still show the "inner cultivation" of Song dynasty scholars through our clothing today?

1 00:01:55,833 --> 00:01:58,433 4.2 Case Study: 4.2 案例： 2 00:01:58,433 --> 00:02:00,033 The "Water Sky Blue" Gown at 杭州亚运会「水天碧长裙」 3 00:02:00,033 --> 00:02:02,733 the Hangzhou Asian Games 杭州亚运会「水天碧长裙」 4 00:02:02,733 --> 00:02:05,133 Now, from theory to stage. 从理念走进现场。 5 00:02:05,133 --> 00:02:07,933 At the opening ceremony 2023年杭州亚运会开幕式上， 6 00:02:07,933 --> 00:02:10,533 of the 2023 Hangzhou Asian Games, 设计师楚艳打造了《国风雅韵》节目： 7 00:02:10,533 --> 00:02:14,000 designer Chu Yan created the program 水墨入诗画、烟雨染江南、 8 00:02:14,000 --> 00:02:18,066 "Guofeng Yayun" "National Style, Elegant 灯火耀古今。她的设计理念本身就是一首诗： 9 00:02:18,066 --> 00:02:19,633 Rhythm": ink washing into poetry 灯火耀古今。她的设计理念本身就是一首诗： 10 00:02:19,633 --> 00:02:21,233 and painting, misty rain dyeing the 灯火耀古今。她的设计理念本身就是一首诗： 11 00:02:21,233 --> 00:02:22,966 Jiangnan, lamps lighting up past 灯火耀古今。她的设计理念本身就是一首诗： 12 00:02:22,966 --> 00:02:23,933 and present. 灯火耀古今。她的设计理念本身就是一首诗： 13 00:02:23,933 --> 00:02:26,666 Her design concept is a poem in itself: 焚香化为紫烟，插花化作杏粉， 14 00:02:26,666 --> 00:02:29,433 burning incense becomes violet smoke; 绘画化为苍黛， 15 00:02:29,433 --> 00:02:32,333 flower arrangement becomes apricot pink; 听风化为墨染——"一色一风雅， 16 00:02:32,333 --> 00:02:34,600 painting becomes deep indigo; 一色一浪漫"。 17 00:02:34,600 --> 00:02:37,100 listening to the wind becomes ink dye. 一色一浪漫"。 18 00:02:37,100 --> 00:02:39,533 One color, one elegance; 长裙上的每一种颜色， 19 00:02:39,533 --> 00:02:41,933 one color, one romance. 长裙上的每一种颜色， 20 00:02:41,933 --> 00:02:44,866 Every color on that gown carries a Song 都对应着一件宋人的雅事。 21 00:02:44,866 --> 00:02:47,366 literati activity this is inheritance at 这才是最高级的传承： 22 00:02:47,366 --> 00:02:50,000 its most refined: not copying a robe, 不是复制一件衣裳， 23 00:02:50,000 --> 00:02:52,100 but translating a way of life 而是把一种生活方式翻译成色彩。 24 00:02:52,100 --> 00:02:53,033 into color. 而是把一种生活方式翻译成色彩。 25 00:02:53,033 --> 00:02:54,000 4.3 GraceChen： 26 00:02:54,000 --> 00:02:59,033 Grace Chen: A Truly International Style Grace Chen: 真正国际化的风格 27 00:02:59,033 --> 00:03:01,100 From ceremony to couture. 真正国际化的风格 28 00:03:01,100 --> 00:03:03,900 Grace Chen is the haute couture brand 从仪式走向高定。 29 00:03:03,900 --> 00:03:07,200 founded by designer Chen Yehuai a singular GraceChen是设计师陈野槐创立的 30 00:03:07,200 --> 00:03:09,300 force in Chinese fashion, 高级时装品牌， 31 00:03:09,300 --> 00:03:12,200 praised by the New York fashion world 是中国时尚界的一股独特力量， 32 00:03:12,200 --> 00:03:14,600 as "a truly international style." 是中国时尚界的一股独特力量， 33 00:03:14,600 --> 00:03:15,833 She fuses classic elegance 被纽约时尚圈称为"真正国际化的 34 00:03:15,833 --> 00:03:16,566 withmodernconfidence. 风格"——她将经典优雅与 35 00:03:16,566 --> 00:03:17,800 现代自信完美融合。 36 00:03:17,800 --> 00:03:20,400 Her signature is the "GC-6" silhouette the 品牌的标志性廓形叫"GC-6"小六码， 37 00:03:20,400 --> 00:03:22,733 world's first "Eastern silhouette" built 是世界上第一个基于中国人身材黄金比例 38 00:03:22,733 --> 00:03:24,733 on the golden proportions 的"东方轮廓"。 39 00:03:24,733 --> 00:03:26,466 of the Chinese figure. 的"东方轮廓"。 40 00:03:26,466 --> 00:03:28,400 Her client is the confident, 它服务的是自信而内心强大的现代女性， 41 00:03:28,400 --> 00:03:30,800 inwardly strong modern woman, 它服务的是自信而内心强大的现代女性， 42 00:03:30,800 --> 00:03:32,600 who wants a life both practical 它服务的是自信而内心强大的现代女性， 43 00:03:32,600 --> 00:03:33,666 and refined. 它服务的是自信而内心强大的现代女性， 44 00:03:33,666 --> 00:03:35,866 What makes the brand remarkable is how it 让她们享受实用且精致的生活方式。 45 00:03:35,866 --> 00:03:38,200 dissolves Chinese aesthetic thought 这个品牌最了不起之处， 46 00:03:38,200 --> 00:03:41,033 into comfortable, beautiful modern daily 在于把中国审美思想融进舒适优美的 47 00:03:41,033 --> 00:03:43,133 wear resonating, remarkably, 现代日常着装， 48 00:03:43,133 --> 00:03:45,600 with clients from every culture. 与来自不同文化背景的客户产生奇妙的共鸣。 49 00:03:45,600 --> 00:03:49,000 Three aesthetic elements define it: "静、深、富"三个审美要素， 50 00:03:49,000 --> 00:03:50,900 stillness, depth, and richness an East 塑造出中西合璧、刚柔相济的独特风格。 51 00:03:50,900 --> 00:03:53,733 meets West style, firmness and softness 塑造出中西合璧、刚柔相济的独特风格。 52 00:03:53,733 --> 00:03:54,833 in balance. 塑造出中西合璧、刚柔相济的独特风格。 53 00:03:54,833 --> 00:03:58,266 4.4 "The Mood of Song Lyrics": 4.4《宋词心境》： 54 00:03:58,266 --> 00:04:00,533 Porcelain as Design Method 以宋瓷为设计手法 55 00:04:00,533 --> 00:04:02,700 Here is the method at its purest: 来看方法论的极致呈现： 56 00:04:02,700 --> 00:04:05,566 the 2023 spring summer collection "The 2023春夏系列《宋词心境》， 57 00:04:05,566 --> 00:04:07,566 Mood of Song Lyrics," part 属于品牌《中国古典文学》三部曲。 58 00:04:07,566 --> 00:04:08,633 of the brand's trilogy 属于品牌《中国古典文学》三部曲。 59 00:04:08,633 --> 00:04:10,400 on Chinese classical 属于品牌《中国古典文学》三部曲。 60 00:04:10,400 --> 00:04:11,433 literature. 属于品牌《中国古典文学》三部曲。 61 00:04:11,433 --> 00:04:14,133 Its design language is Song porcelain. 它的设计语言， 62 00:04:14,133 --> 00:04:15,500 The silhouette borrows 是宋瓷。造型借鉴瓷器"圆中带方， 63 00:04:15,500 --> 00:04:18,300 from porcelain itself "round carrying 方中有圆"的轮廓——流畅线条加上挺括 64 00:04:18,300 --> 00:04:19,566 square, square carrying round" flowing 剪裁； 65 00:04:19,566 --> 00:04:22,333 lines disciplined by crisp tailoring. 剪裁； 66 00:04:22,333 --> 00:04:24,666 The colors are lifted straight 色彩灵感直接取自宋瓷釉色：天青、紫蒲、 67 00:04:24,666 --> 00:04:26,933 from Song glazes: sky blue after rain, 甜白、竹篁绿、 68 00:04:26,933 --> 00:04:30,700 purple cattail, sweet white, bamboo green, 迷楼紫——自然与艺术的融合。 69 00:04:30,700 --> 00:04:33,266 misty lilac purple nature and art 迷楼紫——自然与艺术的融合。 70 00:04:33,266 --> 00:04:34,233 fused. 迷楼紫——自然与艺术的融合。 71 00:04:34,233 --> 00:04:36,533 The idea, in the designer's words: 用设计师的话说： 72 00:04:36,533 --> 00:04:38,400 let beauty return to ……（后略，完整文稿见视频页字幕）